I’ve actually made of these years back.
They aren’t bad if you don’t have the funds to buy a brand name model.
http://www.svrider.com/tips/pipestand/SwingarmStand.htm
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After purchasing my almost-new SV, I quickly realize that I needed a means to elevate the back wheel for chain cleaning and rear wheel maintenance. Like several others who have posted ideas on SVrider.com site, I didn’t want to spend the roughly $80 that a commercially available swingarm stand costs.
So, while wandering through Home Depot one day, it occurred to me that a bunch of sections of 3/4" iron pipe (the type used for household gas lines, etc., which has a fairly heavy wall, and tapered thread (NPT) ends on it) might be assembled tinker-toy style to create a relatively inexpensive, sturdy (if not lightweight) swingarm stand. I took a few basic measurements, and then sketched out my idea, and went to the home supply store. The following is my bill of material for the stand:
The photo below shows the various parts labelled:
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Not shown in this picture are the 8mm bolts and nuts, which thread into the spool mounts on the swingarm. The notches in the uprights (8) in the photo receive the bolts threaded fully into the spool mounts.
Basically this stand goes together tinker-toy style, with the following notes:
All joints must be as tight as you can get them and still get the parts to line up as required.
It does take some tinkering to get all of the right widths worked out. The spread between the insides of the notches in the uprights ended up as 12 5/8"
The notches at the tops of the uprights (8) were made by drilling a 5/16" hole through the ends of the pipe segments just below the top, and then filing the end open into a “U” shape.
Parts 4, 5, and 6 should be parallel. Adjust the 45 degree elbows (5) to make this happen.
The uprights (8) should be parallel and square to the floor.
If you look closely, you’ll notice that I crossdrilled each joint and threaded a ¼-20 bolt through it in an attempt to lock the orientation of each joint. This is mostly effective. I plan to see if each of the joints can be spot-welded sometime in the near future. This is VERY IMPORTANT to the stability and security of the stand. SOME means of preventing unintended rotation of the joints MUST be provided.
The 8mm bolts and nuts are installed into the swingarm spool mounts as shown in the following photo:
With the 2 1/2" pipes as component numbers (2), the rear wheel ends up about 1 1/2" off of the garage floor. The next photo shows the SV up on the stand:
The bike is quite stable on the stand, it it takes perhaps a 20-30 pound push to lift the bike up and over center. It will be more stable once the joints are welded in place.
From the back, it looks something like this:
Finally, for the usual disclaimer (credit goes to Wayne Mock for the verbage from his swingarm pivot stand writeup):
NOTE - PLEASE USE CAUTION WHEN USING THIS LIFT/STAND. YOU ARE DEALING WITH A 400 POUND MOTORCYCLE THAT CAN CAUSE MUCH DAMAGE TO PEOPLE/PROPERTY IF IT FALLS. I WOULD SUGGEST HAVING A STRONG FRIEND CLOSE BY THE FIRST TIME YOU USE THIS STAND, JUST IN CASE. I MAKE NO GUARANTEES REGARDING THE STRENGTH/SUITABILITY OF THIS STAND FOR YOUR USE. I HAVE ONLY DESCRIBED THE CONSTRUCTION OF A STAND THAT WORKS FOR ME.