Pssh, you still need to get to the other end first!
i don’t think 100oct is much of a safety improvement. in order to make it worthwhile, i would probably start at c12 (i believe its 108-110oct). they have it at paulters for $9.
race gas if for faggots
lol @ if
race gas if for faggots
:burnin:
Tell me you are being sarcastic.
if you’re going out to mess around with a high-boost or high comp/timing setup, (and i mean higher HP, 700+w), 100oct pump grade is not something i’d want to rely my $$$$$ of a built car on. but what do i know, i don’t have a hondaboy following
I know a lot of turbo builds that we see local are made to run on 93, so I would imagine that extra 7 octane is a huge safety net. On my yellow car, it was only 500+w, but I was able to run an extra 8 degrees of timing with 0 knock on 100 octane vs. 93 octane.
fucking A man
all e85 this year for me. race gas is too expensive.
I think that’s the plan for a lot of us this year. The inconsistency of it is the shitty part though. I wish it was easier to do the ethanol sensor, and then scale between two maps (like how the flex fuel cars do from the factory).
Wow I am so glad now I know that there are no possible combinations and power levels where 100 can be useful. I am gonna write this one down so i don’t forget… not much of a safety improvement over 93 because turbo ls1 ss said so. Can you share your first hand experience tuning/running 100 you are basing your opinion on? Next time I build a 2600 lb V8 13:1 compression that makes so much power it runs 11s should I go straight to C12? Or C23 perhaps?
just dont tune it to the raggid edge.
leave a safety margin just in case or try to get ahold of a drum and feed off it all summer to keep things consistant. I wont be driving my car much so i can live off a drum for the summer i think.
My own drum is an option, but from what I’ve heard, as soon as you crack it open, it sucks up water like a sponge. :beer2:
i’m aware you know everything based on the 400hp civic ultimate racing built you and the 4 or 500hp or whatever s2000 you have, but for my car that makes well north of double what you did, runs 3 seconds faster and is loading that engine with 2x the weight, i’ll stick with higher than 100oct if i’m going to beat on it. if you ever build something within a 100hp power range as mine and want to go beat on it with 100oct, enjoy.
i’m aware cars of many setups can get away with running a lesser grade gas, but for how long. and let me repeat, im talking north of 700w
I just don’t see the justification for spending over double the cost of 93 to get 100. For a street car, tons of guys are making 6-700rwhp on 93 these days. I’d rather just tune it back a little bit than pay for 100oct as a safety net. And if you are looking to get the most bang for your buck, and are willing to pay $7/gal for 100 why not just go with c12 for $9/gal and see a much bigger improvement.
I sound like a pussy saying 600rwhp is enough…
because 100 is unleaded
i’ll agree on the unleaded bit. the leaded fuel at the track towards the end of the year coked up my E-Valves, exhaust, and turbo like crazy, i almost shit when i took it apart thinking i hurt something, but i guess it’s pretty common
fwiw, i’m currently running low 10’s afr’s, and 15* timing at peak tq, with ~8.4:1 compression. wastegate = ~8-9psi, and that gets 93oct. 17psi is where i have high boost currently set, and that gets 108oct.
wow, that seams extremely conservative for such low compression. you should be ablde to run that with 87oct.lol ok, i kid but still. better safe then sorry is how i like it.