Let’s do it. What are the 6.4 pro’s & con’s?
6.4 is similar to the 6.0… but don’t need the headstuds, and don’t have the oil cooler problems. The big thing on a 6.4 is you need to delete the EGR system completely, and delete the DPF filter. This requires a tuner ($1,600) and exhaust. plus side is you can do it all in your driveway in day. the 6.4’s make stupid power, and are way quieter than the 6.0.
Holy crap dude…this really makes me love my 12 valve all the more…
I strongly recommend 3/4 ton Ram longhorn edition
Wow. Fuck this truck. Maybe I’ll just keep my car for work Lol
Well…sort of…
Well here’s the result of today’s activities…another good / bad scenario. Injector # 8 apparently wasn’t a problem. Took the FUCM / FICM off the get a good look at the injector thinking the harness had somehow popped off when I was diggin around in there yesterday but no. When I went to remove the FUCM to get to it, the middle cable sort of popped off prematurely when I lifted it up. Checked injector connection anyway and all seems good. Fired right up, no engine or warning lights so that’s solved. That’s the good. Now for the bad…or hopefully not so bad.
Had to run up to the northtowns for an appointment. Approximately 75 or so miles as of this post. Idled nicely, ran smoothly, shifted well (no tow haul mode since I replaced the tranny temp sensor) BUT no turbo boost either. I can hear it whistling a little bit but the gauge doesn’t move and there’s no power. I’m thinking this is going to be a quick fix but I’m open to suggestions on possible causes.
There’s also a high frequency hum when the engine is at idle, which I’d say is about 750 rpms. It happens when moving or at a stop light. I can feel it in the brake pedal. I think it’s just air in the power steering pump, since it’s new…along with everything else.
Also have no 4 wheel drive. Manually lock the hubs (as I wqs having issues previously with them engaging and releasing) but the dash light doesn’t light up and no traction, 2WD only. Perfect timing since we got hit with a storm today and the roads were like KY jelly. I actually got stuck once and had to go another way. With no 4WD this think is like a school bus with bald tires towing an aircraft carrier.
So in summary, not a totally bad day, except for the fact I’m gonna have to hand clear the snow from my 2600 sf. driveway until the power and 4WD is fixed. Video of it running after we got the FUCM cleared up.
I’m going back to the shop tomorrow to see what we can do about the issues and will be open to any opinions in the meantime.
[video]2006 Super Duty 6.0 Powerstroke post rebuild idling. - YouTube[/video]
-
-
- Updated - - -
-
I guess if I were interested in doing donuts and getting tickets during driving bans I would be interested in this. Looks like it had a hard time breaking the tires loose on ice?
Keep in mind I am no mechanic but, when I purchased my truck it had NO powa. Brothers Diesel immediately found a vacuum leak in a smallish tube on top of the engine towards the back. After fixing that and installing the BullyDog controller it went like a stabbed rat.
I hope this hepls. lol
That truck had NO PROBLEM Blowing the tires off at any speed, it was amazing. It was fast too, it had a heated wheel and all of these creature comforts. I was blown away at how much cool shit that truck had.
Only problem is it was 54 thousand… more than my house.
Yeah, that’s the catch. I thought mine was expensive when I bought it new. Heated steering wheel though? Does it come with a vag warmer too? Guess when a truck costs that much you’re catering to people that have that kind of cash and not exactly your everyday working hero. Hope it has a block heater.
I would look for boost leaks like a popped off coupler etc and or exhaust leaks pre turbo. It’s important to find boost leaks if that’s the problem ESP if they are major, as the turbo could fail being ran with no load on
The compressor side. I’m betting on somthing relatively obvious related to a boost leak…
We solved all the problems. Loose vacuum hose on the intake manifold, missed plug connection for the 4WD, a loose hose for the power steering, all pretty much what I expected. Got another 150 miles or so before I do the 500 mile break in oil change.
excellent… now you’ll have a reliable tow vehicle for the Z 
As least as reliable as it was before it imploded.
Ready to sell it yet?
Certainly a consideration but all the numbers would have to be right.
Did the 500 mile break in oil change today. Nothing out of the ordinary. Saw virtually no metal particles on the magnet…matter of fact, I would say none. Kept a sample along with one sample from the pan before the rebuild and plan to send it off to Blackstone Labs to see what (if anything) the oil has to tell. So far, trucks running well. Will reconnect the Banks tuner this week and need to get a palm pilot repaired to be able to monitor the numbers I need to. Replacing the shocks was a good idea. Really rides so much nicer. Will post up the oil results when they come back.
Congrats. You turned this around relatively quick.
Thanks. I think I could’ve shaved off massive amounts of time had I known what to expect when we got into the internals. Waiting for parts was a huge pain in the ass. I’d actually like to do this again, just on someone else’s vehicle.
Buy Bings creamsicle…fix it…flip it…profit
Really wish I could. Simply don’t have “Lancaster” cash reserves to do it. Wish it weren’t a dually. I like the King Ranch package. In old age the interior and the seats becomes more important.