91 NX2000 Emission Help

I recently finished restoring my black 91 nx2000, a lot of cutting and welding… Put new 2.5"SSAC headers, custom 2.5" exhaust, new brakes, suspension, etc…
2 days ago decided to go do the emission as I have to get the car on the road before September… This were the results:

40 km/h test

HC Limit: 68 Reading: 64
CO Limit: 0.38 Reading: 0.21
NO Limit: 789 Reading: 1823 FAIL
Dilution: 15.2

yesterday I cleaned the combustion chambers, adjusted my timing to stock 15*, installed a restrictor plate in the exhaust to increase backpressure and went to same facility for retest. These were the results:

40 km/h test

Limit____Reading
HC 68159 FAIL
CO___0.38
0.58 FAIL
NO___789
____2680 FAIL
Dilution was 13.1 at 40km/h and 11.2 at idle (is it running super rich??)
Idle test barely passed.

I was really unhappy with the progress…
I really love my NX and I wanna drive it, I put too much time, effort and even my own blood to save this rare car and I do not wanna give up on it.

Does anyone can suggest a shop that will make it “pass”… I would really appreciate it.

Nice to meet you :R
Sell the car to Terry. He’ll keep it in tip top shape :wink:

Handing out the information to a guy on the boards that I’ve never met… I don’t think that would bode well for the shops that would accept your payment.

www.sr20forum.com would be a better technical resource for your car.

He’s already on there Terry. As most hardcore SR freaks are,LOL!

I will try and help you out bro. More NX’s on the road the better!

Well the car is already in top shape… maybe not emission wise, but which older car is, LOL. I understand the fact that I am new, well on this board, as I just learned about its existence. All I am asking for is a little pointer to get to those places, and your help will be greatly appreciated - you got to share the wisdom right? That’s why this forum exists right? I would like to get to know you guys more before I ask for such favor but frankly I need the car on the road yesterday…

Thanks.

Thanks, the problem with sr20forum is that it is mostly for US guys, not too many local crowd, and frankly I would like to get my NX on the road to show Honda’s what TORQUE and handling means…:R

Thanks for your help guys.

i would go with the cheapest things first. change the oil, clean out the PCV valve, make sure the gas cap is on tight, check the spark plugs for funny colours, clean out the distributor with brake cleaner, check the resistance on the injectors, try some injector cleaner and before you go to get the car tested, make sure the engine is hot, use 94 octane and throw some methyl hydrate in the gas tank…

i would also suggest going to the testing place and asking them what causes those kinds of readings. rich conditions? faulty EGR? then move into the more expensive parts if your car still hasn’t passed. O2 sensor, EGR valve, etc.

also, go to a place that does e testing only. a garage might tell you all sorts of shit is wrong with it and make u pay for everything.

what’s your name on SR20forum?

Same nick on Sr20forum - wojtek1977. Cap and rotor and dizzy are new, oil is new, pcv is almost new… I gotta search for resistance on the injectors and test them…

Thanks.

My suggestion… build friendships and rappot with people on the board before you ask them to disclose illegal information. We can all make suggestions to help you get correct emissions but you were asking for info on where to go to get someone to make it “pass”
I too asked about emissions not too long about but I was looking for info to get it done the correct way at first.

In terms of emissions, the resistance of the injectors doesn’t matter as much as the flow pattern of the injectors. Make sure it is the proper cone shape and that the fuel is atomizing correctly. If it’s shooting unatomized fuel your Carbon readings will be really high (Cat burns the raw fuel off and leaves carbon)
You can’t really take out the injectors to check, so run some injector cleaner through the fuel system and that should clean it out as best as you can get it. My suggestion - A product called “Seafoam” if you can get your hands on it. Some Napa locations can get their hands on it. And that other location called “C…” I forgot the name. Try them. Good luck.

I understand what you are saying, I pretty much did everything (except for new O2) the legal way. I seafoamed the engine 3 times, although I did not run it through gas to clean injectors. I think I will try to get a new O2 sensor, as it will help with future fuel economy.
The other location is Carquest, the one in Oakville on Speers Rd. always carries Seafoam, I really like that product.

Yes yes CARQUEST. That’s it.
The O2 sensor doesn’t only help with fuel economy. It helps with emissions for sure.
My left O2 sensor was bad (It was always showing rich) and not triggering a fault code with the ECU so my ECU was trying to compensate and as a result the left bank of cylinders was running lean.

I know I am running rich as I have backfire at 4,500rmp+ when i left off throttle, even when under no load. I just got a bottle of new seafoam and going to put it in the tank (half of it anyways). New NGK O2 sensor can be had for $84 so I might get that, but today i rechecked and my egr and it doesn’t open at all under free revs, so it might be BPT or even EGR solenoid…

Update:

Changed O2 sensor (NGK one), fixed EGR (thanks to Alex -PantyChrist) filled up with 94 octane, lowered timing to 11*, warmed up the car good on the way to the retest and got the following results at 40km/h (25 mph):

_____Limit____Reading
HC ____68____57 pass
CO___0.38____0.09 pass
NO___789_____1554 FAIL

Well the only thing left to replace is the catco cat that I have, seems like that crap is not burning off the NOx left off in the exhaust.

Any other suggestions/comments?

up the timing for a more complete burn?

Update: Went to my mechanic, who took out the catco cat and my resonator, and welded in 2 new 3-way catalytic converters, I also fixed the egr as it seemed to be working but actually the vacuum signal wasn’t strong enough to keep the egr open during steady load, also retarded the timing to 8* went to e-test with following results:

_____Limit____Reading
HC ____68____123 FAIL
CO___0.38____0.03 pass
NO___789_____51 pass

Now, HC wasn’t passing, so I upped the timing to stock 15* and went to e-test again:

_____Limit____Reading
HC ____68____149 FAIL
CO___0.38____0.06 pass
NO___789_____176 pass

I was like what the hell??? Maybe the egr was opening too much, well I disconnected the egr and left the timing where it was and go 3rd test of the day:

_____Limit____Reading
HC ____68____109 FAIL
CO___0.38____0.12 pass
NO___789_____1171 FAIL

I was pissed, how the hell can I lower HC levels?
Now I know that EGR is doing a lot to the NO but is it possible that those 2 cats are too far from the engine to heat them up properly and first stage (NO reduction) kinda works but second stage (HC reduction) doesn’t work efficiently?

Any ideas, I am sick and tired of Emission Bull*****!

How far are the cats away from the engine?

My friend with his 2002 Chevy S10 failed emissions after we took out his resonator. We put it back in and it passed with flying colours.
Not the same styled car but the principal is the same.

The cats start underneath the shifter lever (so maybe 5 feet from the engine or so), tomorrow I might go back and put one of those cats in place of the flex pipe to get it close and get it to its operating temperature.

What else can lower HCs? My plugs look good, wires are recent too…

UPDATE: PASSED!!! (It took 7 etest to do so!)

Here was the setup:

Timing: 13*

EGR: hooked up trigger signal from fuel pressure regulator straight into BPT (restricted the flow in the hose as the vacuum is very strong in the fuel pressure regulator) for the EGR to open more and remain open at constant RPM

Spark Plugs: Regapped to 0.038"

Fuel: Added 2.5L of methyl hydrate for 10L of fuel

Exhaust: Two cats welded in, in place of my cat and resonator

Chose a different location for Etest (the location for the first test that I did, where the HC’s were passing), the car failed the first 40 km/h roller test, so for the retest (they always do a retest on cars that failed) and asked him to warm up the cats good for me, so the guy drove for about 5 min on the rollers at 3K RPM to get the exhaust temp up and did the retest, about 20 sec into the retest the car passed, with flying colors I must say:

_____Limit____Reading
HC ____68____21 pass
CO___0.38____0.09pass
NO___789_____7 pass

Methyl hydrate might have helped but due to the fact that I did not change much from the other tests must say that Drive Clean facilities equipment calibration varies, so if you are failing in one, you might pass in other without any changes on your car.
I would like to thank you all for your input, without it I would be still struggling, now I can enjoy my beast - one more saved NX on the roads!