I cant pass the etest...what to do or where to get one?

SON240sx Automotive
1

ok so ive done 4 etest’s now, and i still cant pass! its seems to do better than worst on somethings. Its always chaging.

i have a good exhaust, no leaks or cracks, a brand new cat, a new bosch o2 sensor and plugs.

i tried guranteed to pass and even methol hydrate and its still wont pass but it has been improving everytime with the exception of the c02 levels.

Im going to replace my cap and rotor and wires before i take another test.

i checked the timing, and set it correctly when i was getting it diagnosed.

Anyone know what else i can do?

Or better yet, anyone know of anyone or anywhere i can get a “etest” that will be a for sure pass? :slight_smile: im not a cop or anything…no worries. Im just tired of dishing out more money for stupidness …im not keeping this engine very long but i need to get my plates on so i need to get an etest…i did safety already.

btw, its a '90 with the ka24e enigne.

thanks

2

try 91 octane, i think it helps.

3

i always use 94, and when i went for the test, i used 94 plus methol hydrate a couple times and the other time i used 94 and garanteed to pass crap.

4

Next time, when you go for the etest first go for a good run to get the cat hot, let the car idle while you wait to go on the machine.

You need to keep the cat at the hottest temp to work properly

Adam

5

yup, i did that too! i warmed it up on a 25mins highway drive with a lot of “spirited” driving and then i waited 15mins to get the test and while i was waiting i was reving the car at 2500Rpm till they put it on.

6

there’s a dedicated drive clean place on danforth right off birchmount I believe, they aren’t a mechanic so they have no incentive to fail you, I’ve gone there before and there’s usually just one attendant and no line up

I normally go to a shop nearby that I’m in good with and while I’ve never asked to make a car pass, they try their best… I’ve taken cars there other’s have failed and they passed with <1% of the allowed emissions

and aside from timing/octane and o2/cat there’s one more thing you need to know… a baffled muffler will reduce the particulate matter and heavy vapour which will lower your HC

if you tell us what your tests said we can help you diagnose what the car is doing, and therefore help you figure out what to fix

7

no one will give you a fake e-test when you failed the test 4 times

8

what do you mean by a baffled muffler? like a cannon type? If thats the case, ive got one on, but would using the silencer during the test make a difference?

Also, i just remembered, but the guy before me took out the charcoal can, would that make a significant difference?

Here are my test results ( i dont have the sheet for the very first test but this is test 2-4):

test 2 (sept.12, new cat and methol hydrate and 94 gas):

HC ppm: limit 66, i got 179 fail
C0%: Limit 0.37, i got 4.71 fail
NO ppm: limit 757, i got 154 pass
rpm: 2696, valid
dilution: 16.4, valid

at curb ilde:
HC: limit 200, i got 35, pass
Co%: Limit 1.00, i got 0.24 pass
RPM: 931, valid
Dilution: 14.8, valid

Test 3 (sept.18, new o2 sensor, half a tank of 94 gas and i added garanteed to pass):
HC: limit 66, i got 152, fail
Co%: limit 0.37, i got 4.98, fail
No: limit 757, i got 559, pass
rpm: 2860, valid
dilution: 16.8, valid

at curb idle:
HC: Limit 200, i got 110, pass
CO%: limit 1.00, i got 0.03, pass
Rpm: 767, valid
dilution: 11.1, valid

test 4 (sept.19, a full tank of 94 gas, and still have garanteed to pass in the tank):

HC: limit 66, i got 100, fail
CO: limit 0.37, i got 2.90, fail
NO: limit 757, i got 73, pass
rpm: 2844, valid
dilution: 16.2, valid

At curb idle:
HC: limit 200, i got 165, pass
CO: limit 1.00, i got 3.86, fail
rpm: 742, valid
dilution: 12.2, valid

the results fluctuate. its weird

9

Try some throttle body cleaner as well…

Check out my e-test for ka24de w/results (first one failed) in this thread:

http://www.son240sx.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=20487&highlight=etest

10

carbon canister as in the EGR if so…if u put that back in it can lower the number of Nitrous oxide molecules…i passed without it

also the person doing the etest and pass or fail u in just the way they drive the car

11

high CO levels usually means incomplete combustion… check your spark plugs, spark plug cables, rotor & cap…

Also, there might not be enough oxygen in the combustion chamber and the gasoline can’t all burn up… maybe you can check your air filter, or get that EGR system checked out somehow…
Also, like someone suggested, clean the throttle body with some cleaner… that sometimes helps as well.

These are just my opinions, please don’t hold this against me if I’m wrong :slight_smile:

12

Engine Revitalizer , seafoam the engine a day before going for the test .

are u sure u have a good catylic converter / o2 sensor?

Use regular gas , drive it on the highway, dont Rev the engine in Neutral.

13

whats engine revitalizer? same stuff as sea foam?

i cleaned the TB now and i found out something!

the rubber hose that goes form the intake pipe to the TB, has a huge cracke in it and you would have never known if you didnt take it off. Woudl that cause a no pass? a vacuum leak could be a bad thing for idle and such too…i have a bit of a miss too ive noticed lately, so maybe this all has to do with it?

14

You clearly do not no what your talking about yet again. Carbon canister collects the evaporating fuel from the tank and burns it off by releasing it in to the intake system. EGR= exhaust gas recirculation lowers combustion chamber temps. Lower combustion chamber temps = lower NOx levels, Nitrogen not nitrous. Fail you but the way the car drives it BS. I wish I could do that. Get your facts stright.

15

you can fail a or pass a car by the way the tester drives it…

16

I do these test, there isn’t much really a different way to drive them on the dyno. They have to be at a certain rpm or the system kicks you out. It you not at a constant speed the system kicks you out. There is no other way to drive them on the dyno. You can’t just go on and off the gas to stay at 39km. The main 2525 test has to be done between 38km and 41km. Above 1500rpm and below i think 2300 or it kicks you out. :roll: Anyone else care to share what they don’t know about?

17

i think you got teh facts right on for the etest! there is no other way to do it unless you kinda cheat by starting in 3rd gear…

18

i jsut failed my e test on the idle test for HC i was at 411 and the limit was 200 however it passed everything else,

i noticed from this guys tests that his idle HC was 35 when his idle was 950 and when it was 750 it was in the 160 areas…

does anyone know if i set my idle higher to say 950 and take it in if it will make an effect on idle HC?

19

HC is un-burnt fuel. To rich at idle you can try adjusting the idle air and see what happens. It’s kind of hard to deal with cause you can drop the fuel pressure but then NOx levels will raise do to higher temps. Then again the ecu might pick-up on it and lengthen the injector pulse. It hard to deal with, without the proper equipment to see what your emissions levels are at while adjusting.

20

you experts can explain to me how a car can fail 3 times in a row before I get it, and pass perfectly when I have it tested

I’ve “helped” numerous people after failing by taking them to my guys where they passed with flying colours

but I’m sure that was a complete accident, they all were, you can only drive it one way…

I might believe that when I get alzheimers

that’s stupid, that would affect the fueling all over… when all that matters is idle, maybe the idle switch isn’t working or other idle controls, use the fsm to test them and swap them out with known good ones as needed