that’s stupid, that would affect the fueling all over… when all that matters is idle, maybe the idle switch isn’t working or other idle controls, use the fsm to test them and swap them out with known good ones as needed[/quote]
No shit its going to affect fueling over. Why would he swap out the idle air valve? If he can adjust it, its working,its a simple screw valve you ass clown.
use the fsm to test them and swap them out with known good ones as needed
there once was a monkey named thankyou …
aparently 94 is the worst to run since it burns the slowest and leaves unburnt fuel behind on idle…
ill be switching to 91 for the next test…
And who else can’t say that? Everytime you got a problem you pick up you FSM? Where the point in saying that? You think he’s a ass clown like you, whos like yah I’m going to take it to my buddies shop and appearently I no what going on even though I’m not the one doing the test and repairs. You know how many off these I do at nissan in a week? Phil, krimzen and other people on this board knows my work. I not saying I’m the best but I’ll get it done. I don’t mean to pick at you but you don’t do this for a living, I do.
i dont know about that …higher octane is better…to a point, too high of an octane and it wont burn properly if you have a normal or lower compression engine, such as turboed engine, but 94 is going to be better for the engine and will always burn cleaner and the reason for higher octane gas is because its helps eliminate pre detonation in the CC and engine knock. Thats why we no longer use leaded fuels… Higher than 94 octane is meant to be used in really high compression engines, if not it wont burn properly.
What are you running under scotty? stock 240 or hotrod?
i dont know about that …higher octane is better…to a point, too high of an octane and it wont burn properly if you have a normal or lower compression engine, such as turboed engine
compression can affect octane requirements, but on a turbo car you need to have the higher octane to prevent pre-ignition when running more advanced timing or when the compressed air temps are too high as you know… which is entirely irrelevant during idle when it’s in high vacuum
but 94 is going to be better for the engine and will always burn cleaner
fuel burns cleaner when the fuel is more refined and free of impurities… it also needs adequate time to burn/combust completely that usually means you need to be at the right a/f and the timing has to be advanced far enough to complete the burn before dumping into the exhaust
Thats why we no longer use leaded fuels…
lead benzoate was an octane booster and helped reduce explosions during crashes… you’ll realize this is why 130 octane racing fuel contains lead… because it is the same leaded gas they used to use, and motors in the old days were high compression, 14:1 was not unheard of
Higher than 94 octane is meant to be used in really high compression engines, if not it wont burn properly.
higher compression just needs less advanced ignition timing, lower compression needs more timing, that is all
thats also true, and we can constantly keeping posting back and forth about all this from here on, but i was simply describing all this in an unpretentious manner and for everyday cars you see on the road, not heavily modified cars you would find at the track. This has slightly gone off topic now and has gotten way too specific into details. Although, it could be usefull/informative to some people on the forum! It never hurts to learn something new!
no one will give you a fake e-test when you failed the test 4 times
what do you mean by a baffled muffler? like a cannon type? If thats the case, ive got one on, but would using the silencer during the test make a difference?
Also, i just remembered, but the guy before me took out the charcoal can, would that make a significant difference?
Here are my test results ( i dont have the sheet for the very first test but this is test 2-4):
test 2 (sept.12, new cat and methol hydrate and 94 gas):
HC ppm: limit 66, i got 179 fail
C0%: Limit 0.37, i got 4.71 fail
NO ppm: limit 757, i got 154 pass
rpm: 2696, valid
dilution: 16.4, valid
at curb ilde:
HC: limit 200, i got 35, pass
Co%: Limit 1.00, i got 0.24 pass
RPM: 931, valid
Dilution: 14.8, valid
Test 3 (sept.18, new o2 sensor, half a tank of 94 gas and i added garanteed to pass):
HC: limit 66, i got 152, fail
Co%: limit 0.37, i got 4.98, fail
No: limit 757, i got 559, pass
rpm: 2860, valid
dilution: 16.8, valid
at curb idle:
HC: Limit 200, i got 110, pass
CO%: limit 1.00, i got 0.03, pass
Rpm: 767, valid
dilution: 11.1, valid
test 4 (sept.19, a full tank of 94 gas, and still have garanteed to pass in the tank):
HC: limit 66, i got 100, fail
CO: limit 0.37, i got 2.90, fail
NO: limit 757, i got 73, pass
rpm: 2844, valid
dilution: 16.2, valid
At curb idle:
HC: limit 200, i got 165, pass
CO: limit 1.00, i got 3.86, fail
rpm: 742, valid
dilution: 12.2, valid
the results fluctuate. its weird
Try some throttle body cleaner as well…
Check out my e-test for ka24de w/results (first one failed) in this thread:
http://www.son240sx.ca/forum/viewtopic.php?t=20487&highlight=etest
carbon canister as in the EGR if so…if u put that back in it can lower the number of Nitrous oxide molecules…i passed without it
also the person doing the etest and pass or fail u in just the way they drive the car
high CO levels usually means incomplete combustion… check your spark plugs, spark plug cables, rotor & cap…
Also, there might not be enough oxygen in the combustion chamber and the gasoline can’t all burn up… maybe you can check your air filter, or get that EGR system checked out somehow…
Also, like someone suggested, clean the throttle body with some cleaner… that sometimes helps as well.
These are just my opinions, please don’t hold this against me if I’m wrong 
Engine Revitalizer , seafoam the engine a day before going for the test .
are u sure u have a good catylic converter / o2 sensor?
Use regular gas , drive it on the highway, dont Rev the engine in Neutral.
whats engine revitalizer? same stuff as sea foam?
i cleaned the TB now and i found out something!
the rubber hose that goes form the intake pipe to the TB, has a huge cracke in it and you would have never known if you didnt take it off. Woudl that cause a no pass? a vacuum leak could be a bad thing for idle and such too…i have a bit of a miss too ive noticed lately, so maybe this all has to do with it?
You clearly do not no what your talking about yet again. Carbon canister collects the evaporating fuel from the tank and burns it off by releasing it in to the intake system. EGR= exhaust gas recirculation lowers combustion chamber temps. Lower combustion chamber temps = lower NOx levels, Nitrogen not nitrous. Fail you but the way the car drives it BS. I wish I could do that. Get your facts stright.
you can fail a or pass a car by the way the tester drives it…
I do these test, there isn’t much really a different way to drive them on the dyno. They have to be at a certain rpm or the system kicks you out. It you not at a constant speed the system kicks you out. There is no other way to drive them on the dyno. You can’t just go on and off the gas to stay at 39km. The main 2525 test has to be done between 38km and 41km. Above 1500rpm and below i think 2300 or it kicks you out. :roll: Anyone else care to share what they don’t know about?
i think you got teh facts right on for the etest! there is no other way to do it unless you kinda cheat by starting in 3rd gear…
i jsut failed my e test on the idle test for HC i was at 411 and the limit was 200 however it passed everything else,
i noticed from this guys tests that his idle HC was 35 when his idle was 950 and when it was 750 it was in the 160 areas…
does anyone know if i set my idle higher to say 950 and take it in if it will make an effect on idle HC?