blew the d series up
now its time to move onto bigger and better things.
tearin apart the b18b1
Weisco pistons, eagle rods, ARP main studs, ARP head studs and block gaurd
ACL race bearings for the mains, Clevite race bearings for the rods, and weisco piston rings
more to come 
thought you werent doin a block guard pussy 
i am
What are your plans for the final setup? Or is that something we will find out as you go?
as to turbo and injectors and such?
I just saw in the other thread the mention of Nitrous, I was more questioning the cam head etc… but you can feel free to share whatever you like. Sorry if you already did and I missed it, I just skim quickly through the really long threads.
what compression are you going with? i know we’ve talked about this alot before but i forgot lol. i also thought you were boreing it but i see 81mm rings 
i would sincerely suggest you ditch the block guard and the arp mains
the rest of the setup looks great
did you measure to make sure the acl’s will work, i have built a couple blocks that the regular acl’s were on the loose side and the race would have def not been within the specs
honda blocks are easy to do bearings, all almost al aftermarket rods call for green bearings and the block codes on the block and rods will tell you what color mains you need
no nitrous for me.
22lbs of boost, water meth injection and MAYBE some 110 octane.
eventually ill be doing either skunk 2 or toda vtec killer cams, retainers, springs, etc…
but ill be using a garrett t3/t4 turbo. not sure what trim yet. either .60 or .63
the pistons are 9.7:1 which is quite high for the amount of boost i wanna run. so ill be doing a thicker head gasket and some head work to drop it a little.
i was going to bore it out but the pistons i got were 81mm.
oh well
even with 22lbs of boost? i was thinkin that if 22 worked out well that i would push it with 25 ish. so i thought i would put it in anyways.
i ordered the parts through klispie machine shop in hamburg.
Guy took all the part numbers, ordered them and made sure they fit.
thanks for the heads up though man.
the acl’s are a generic bearing and while they work most of the time, there are instances where they wont
do you understand what “race” means for the acl bearings
btw the block guard will do more harm than good no matter how much power your trying to make
its the coating on the bearing.
so should i scrap the block gaurd idea then?
how is the block guard going to hurt it… its reducing the cylinder wall flex.
yes scrap the block guard
the “race” is a thinner bearing compared to the normal bearing which gives a little more cushion for high horsepower motors (def not something you want for a street car)
the last motor i built with acl’s i ended up having to order oem honda main bearings as the acl’s were too “loose” and left the customer with not enough oil pressure once the oil was warmed up at idle
im not attacking you or your build, but just trying to help as ive been there and done that
get the codes off your crank and your block and see what color bearings they are and post them on here, that should tell you an idea if the acl’s will work for you
it will also cause a hot spot in the top of the cylinder walls
“posting” is a much better alternative than block guards but still is not needed
there are many people running 500whp on stock sleaves without a block guard w/o any problems
im not trying to bash your knowledge or anything but guy at klispie measured the bearings and everything. made sure shit would work out.
im going to re measure and re re measure everything to be 1,000,000% sure its all good. if not, honda dealer here i come. but thanks for the input man, thats why i started this thread
oh, and i am going to be checking line bore and everything with the main studs in.
dont run a cam like that with boost, that is all motor cam.
id keep the block guard.
and run the vites for the rod and crank mains. heard bad things from acl
:tup:
with posting im assuming you cannot sleeve the block later on…
