98 civic, extremely odd cooling issue

so, i have been driving this faggotmobile for the last few months. it gets me to work and back. it gets good mileage. its bullshit.

anyway, once it started getting cold, i noticed that the temp wouldnt really rise up to normal opperating temp. eh, no big deal i said, thermostat stuck open.

so haenszel and i did the t stat (which took 7 minutes) then bleed the system (which took 40 minutes) put a torch to the old one and it opened. fuck.

tried bleedign it again tonight, and for a long time. disconnected the fan, got the coolant fucking bubbling in this pile of garbage, thought i got all the air out. temp was good.

low and behold, i drive out and i still have super hot heat. hondas have the hottest heat of any car ive ever owned, its awesome. gradually, the temp starts to drop, again. wtf.

i get on the thruway, and it continues dropping. remember, it was maybe 30 degrees out tonight. hit the 219, accelerate up to 73 mph, temp rises to normal temp. as soon as i hit the off ramp the shit starts to drop again. WTF this car is bullshit

any ideas?

before anyone suggests it -

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yY48qb2DMAE/TY8M6mBzYFI/AAAAAAAAABg/ZqmgNilkHi4/s1600/istockphoto_6636136-torn-piece-of-cardboard.jpg

what’s the fan doing? maybe the sensor for the fan trigger switch is screwed up making the fan run when it is not needed and bringing the temps below operating temp?

If you have heat when it’s moving but not when you stop you have air trapped in the cooling system, you could also have a restricted heater core. How did you bleed the system. Pulling the fan was a bad idea. Getting it that hot where it bubbles out will only cause more air to be trapped in the cooling system.

Do you have a “high-lift” it’s a system that uses compressed air to put a vacuum on the system and collapse the rubber hoses and when the valve is opened it will SUCK the system nearly 100% full of coolant. Requirement on watercooled porsche’s etc or you’ll kill yourself. Welcome to come over and we’ll suck each other off.

In my Jeep I had heat when moving but none when idling, then it quit altogether. The same night it quit, I had symptoms of a stuck thermostat a few times- temp shot up and then fell down just as quick. It ended up being the damn radiator cap causing all the problems. It took my friend a while to figure it out. Bled it, new cap, and it’s been perfect ever since.

you didnt get one of them shitty fail safe thermostats did you?

if you did, change it again

It has heat just fine when idling. Once air gets passed over the radiator(at moderate speeds etc) the whole system over-cools. If you romp on it the engine creates more heat and the temp comes back up, and VIOLA! Heat!

Thermostat is not a fail-safe brand POS. Its a regular-ass thermostat.

Jam, lets go to Zac’s.

you guys got the funnel that attachs to the radiator so you can over fill it to get rid of any air? ill let jam borrow mine if he wants, i use to work on his cars years ago…lol…

im going to try this before i bother zac and make him suck me off

cool man let us know what ya find…what about the valve on the heater hose with the switch on it, while i happen to think about it… ive seen a few bad ones…