Hey all… first thing, i am in search of a wideband o2 for my 4g civic. preferably an aem or autometer one b/c the car already has autometer ultra-lite gauges in it. i would like them to semi match. i plan on getting that car back on the road after 3 years and wanted to get some things right beforehand. it has a dohc zc with t3/t4 turbo. i currently have the stock si injectors (i believe they are 220’s??) in it with an afc and a switch on the secondary fuel pump to get it to pass emissions. i have dsm 450’s for it too that usually run in it, but it makes it run like a pile of crap until the turbo spools. i wanted to get some opinions on what i should do for daily driving. i am probably going to run it just on the wastegate @7-9psi (not the boost controller) do you think i could keep the stock injectors in it and push them a little hard with the afc. it also has the piece of crap “band-aid” on it too (fmu-raising rate fuel pressure reg). i’m just thinking of trying to keep it conservative to drive on a semi-daily basis. i know the wideband would answer alot of my questions but wanted to see what you guys think. if i wanted to run it harder, im going to put in the 450’s and get it on a dyno for some more precise tuning, but for low boost and daily driving i think a decent street tune should be ok. thanks for your help
If you get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator that will help your fuel trims at idle and low rpm, because I’m figuring if you have a larger fuel pump thats over running your stock fuel pressure regulator. that could be one thing that makes the car run like a pile of crap until the turbo spools. Be careful too, because some fpr like b&m only allow you to raise the fuel pressure, wile others like aeromotive allow you to set a base fuel pressure and will also raise the fuel pressure as your car boosts. (I have an Aeromotive)
If you don’t get that 1st and buy a wideband, You will probably see that your fuel trims are rich at idle with the over run fpr. The wideband o2 sensor will help you dial in those 450’s and is a good idea reguardless.
I have an aem ugeo, but the innovate are good as well.
Just Like you I have all autometer guages but for the wideband I got aem because I had never heard anything about the autometer before but do know alot of people using the AEM without any issues. (i’ve had none with the AEM) the aem also comes with a silver bezel and a white face along with the black bezel and black face if your worrid about the looks,
I don’t think its a good idea to push the stock injectors, 220cc thats almost a joke, right now I have aprox an 80% duty cycle on 780’s. In the past have maxed out 450’s and 550’s with little effort so i wouldn’t attempt any boost with the 220’s
idk hope that helps
funny you call an fmu a piece of crap band-aide, but plan on using an afc hack with stock injectors? It sounds to me you’re mixing a few different strategies on how to cover fuel control on a boosted setup. Usually people use an fmu to push more fuel through stock injectors in boost with higher rail pressure, or an afc hack to adjust for larger injectors like 450’s. why don’t you just sell all of that shit and have enough money for a chipped ecu, wideband, and chip burner? That way you can better adjust your timing also.
hey thanks guys for the quick responses…yea i agree that the 220’s are just about worthless, but was trying to keep with the most reliable and least headache parts. the stock injectors are just for emissions reasons cuz the 450’s almost double the state’s allowable numbers. i am saving for an aem ems, and just sell all this other junk, but with moving to a new house, buying a diesel truck to tow my baja boat, and school loans kicking my ass, its hard to come up with 1500 bucks on the spot. if i can make something half way reliable out of this civic, then i might be able to trust it to drive to work. i love driving the car, 4g’s rock, but they are alot of work to keep decent.:doh:
- Get conversion harness to go to obds
- Get a chipped p28 or similar chipped ecu
- take off all the ECU hack and fmu
- Install 450s
- Get tuned
the tune will have the right A/F all across the map so you will not get bad gas mileage. and with a tune you will not blow it up having the wrong ignition values in there.
whagt kind of truck are you looking to get?
Also you dont need AEM!
i already bought my truck…i bought an 01 ram2500 cummins…its a beast, get out da way!!
Good luck keeping up!!
ouch dude :bowdown: …stick or auto?? i bought an auto cuz the price tag was right and it had 72k on it but originally set out to get a 6sp. what did u do to get that kind of power? mine is just an mbrp 4", k+n, and i’ve got a juice w/attitude sittin at the shop waiting for me. i’m kinda worried about the tranny tho, they aren’t the most durable trannys in the world. ive been trying not to get too outrageous with it cuz its strictly a tow rig. u go to the fair and pull with yours?
… Just glad to see another cummins owner here. Mine is a stick. If you need anything, or have any questions, please feel free to contact me. I work at Keystone Diesel :bigok:
This is exactly what I would do but if you’re tight on cash you don’t need to swap to obd1, it jsut frees up the most options. There are still programs for obd0 most just aren’t coming out with new features since most people have moved on.
awesome… tune is a relative turm… leveling a/f’s is one thing… tuning street tip in full maps is anotha… but obd1 chipped ftw