yup, I only buy blanks. They are much cheaper and last longer.
Heck yes :rofl
IMO:
Show: X-drilled (or x-drilled+slotted ::))
Go: Blanks
Race: Slotted
the shows ive been to… CHROME cross drilled and slotted… they must drive the car ALOT
don’t forget the caliper covers
i dunno, the stock rotors on the camaro just arent enough to stop that car, def need something more then blanks on that car
Holy misinformation on brakes, Batman. Where to begin?
Different types of rotors do NOT increase the stopping power of brake systems, they increase the cooling efficiency of brake systems.
Cross drilled rotors in general are a bad idea because they are made improperly. They put them on high end performance cars because people want them because they look racey. 90% of race teams out there (ya know, the people that actually need to care about cooling efficiency?) do NOT USE CROSSDRILLED OR SLOTTED ROTORS! THEY USE BLANKS FOR DURABILITY!
A handful of teams will try them from time to time but after losing races due to cracked rotors, they’ll change back to blanks awful fast. The best way to increase cooling efficiency without losing durability is a FLOATING BLANK ROTOR. PEROID.
For a Camaro needing “more than blanks to stop well”; bullshit. You need a pad compound change. NO ONE on the street exceeds the cooling capacity of their braking setup while using an appropriate brake pad.
Again, cross drilled or slotted rotors DO NOT HELP YOU STOP FASTER. They increase cooling efficiency at the expense of durability which is NOT worth it for a street car (or any car) since with the appropriate pad, you WILL NOT OVERHEAT YOUR BRAKES ON THE STREET!
One stop from 120 to zero will not overheat your brakes with the appropriate pad. 2 stops wont. 10 stops back to back wont either. You will not overheat your brakes on the street if they are working properly.
:headbang :headbang :headbang :headbang :headbang
I can cook my sentra’s current pads in 3 60-0 stops to the point where i can have my foot on the brake, to the floor, and still drive around…time for HT-10s??? :lol
Your fluid is original and needs replacing.
my stock front rotors warped which is why I went to drilled/slotted.
Oh, but with your x-drilled & slotted rotors it made your Camaro brake 90% better than any car on this forum!
They werent warped, you had funky pad deposits from improper pads. In real bad deposit situations, they can actually cause the pad to jump off the rotor and back on causing abnormal wear, but the disc itself doesnt warp. Regardless, it’s from improper pads and not overheating.
so how do u get rid of it…cause i highly doubt i warped my slotteds
resurface them.
ok…is that expensive??? i’ve never had to do that b-4 so…
napa should do it for u for like 25$
wow for real??? that is cheap…should i get new pads (even if they arent’ that worn, they are Hawk Ceramics)
its normally recommended to replace the pads because they form to the rotor surface… and since u are resurfacing the rotors it will change the contact patch on the rotor from the pad thus reducing stopping efficiency…however… its your shit…
aight…thanx man
n/p
Resurfacing rotors takes material off of the rotor. If it costs you $25 to do, and you’re left with 15% rotor life left, it’s probably a better idea to spend the $40 and buy a new rotor. Also, it’s not a good idea to resurface slotted rotors since the machine will change depth when it hits the slot and the surface will be uneven and accelerate pad wear.
If the problem is just pad deposits, change pads or bed them in again and hope that it will knock off the deposits.
Pad deposits occur on the street mostly when you come off the northway at 212mph, slam on your brakes up the the stoplight, and keep your foot planted fusing the hot pads to the hot rotor. The edges of the pad will melt onto the rotor (you cant see it, we’re talking microns) and creating deposits. Pad runs over the deposits and jumps them causing the pulsing in the pedal you feel.
Change to a different pad compound to scrub the deposits off, or bed them in again. Get them REAL hot and then allow them to cool without putting deposits back on the rotor.
Shitty pads will cause deposits more than quality pads.