I’ve been surfing twice On Pacific Beach in San Diego. Took a lesson my first time. Just easy stuff on a long board. Small, already broken waves. It was a good time.
I’ve been bodyboarding there too and ventured farther out into the waves. I made it onto a wave perfect one time and droped down the face of the breaking wave. I can honestly say it was one of the coolest feelings of my life.
I think I would be a surfer if I llived near a surfing beach.