that’s the same exact stuff i use…i can verify my method will work. if you want help, let me know. It’s not a science, but experience with it is recommended.
I used to suck with it at first…now i’ve got a good system down. Made some really cool tables last week for somebody and they came out perfect.
I may ask for some moral support then. :tup: This seems like a one shot deal and I’d be pretty pissed if I screwed up 20 of my prints all at once.
For now, I’ll start getting the prints ready, and fab the wall bracket here at work so it has something to sit on when I’m applying the epoxy.
:tup: to oral support.
let me guess…a hawaii rememberence art piece?
im going to go with a bills game rememberence piece
:tup: I hope you do a DIY post
Yessir. I brought my board back from Hawaii since I got it cheap from a friend, and it was only supposed to be $25 to bring it on the plane. (which ended up being free) I certainly won’t be using it here so F it. I’m going to make the wall bracket so the board is sitting vertically about 6" from the wall with the bottom of the board facing out and possibly attach lights to the back so it “glows” the wall behind it.
I think you’re kidding, but just in case… Why would I do a Bill’s game rememberance piece on a surfboard? lol
yea i was kidding
Haha. Ok. There are some people…
you still may see the edge. imagine if you had a 4’x4’ piece of plywood and put a one inch thick board in the middle of it somewhwere and then olayed a piece of one-two inch thick ruber over it. you would still see where that piece of wood is under the rubber.
EDIT: i didnt notice josh mentioneing sanding. i would put two coats on then feather edge the pictures and then proceed to do your topcoat. US composites is great stuff. thats where i source 90% of my materials.
I guess we’ll see after a couple coats. I think it should do the trick, though. Laying a blanket of rubber over something is nothing like pouring a liquid on it. I do see what you are saying, but the liquid will fill voids and build up an even surface on top of it.
i disagree, re read the edit in my post above yours.
although i believe we are now on the same page i just want to convey my original point, there is a reason you have to feather edge primer or filler when you go to lay basecoat and clear. the epoxy coating is a bit thicker and is a little more forgiving but the rules still apply because you are doing multiple thin coats. ok so the rubber may not be the best example. take something flat and lay down some masking tape. paint over the masking tape with a couple coats of paint. peel the masking tape. you will have an edge. that edge is going to be your model for the picture. now paint over that tape edge with another color or clear. you will still see and feel the edge. reason being is that you are adding for instance 3 mils on top of the whole surface evenly. the paint/liquid doesnt realize “oh theres an edge here, i should settle to one mill on top of the edge and two below so its even” do you get what im saying? i really dont know how to explain things well.
but as was already mentioned if you feather that edge down between coats you will be golden 
i would suggest 400 then 800 then 12 or 1500 for best results
and make sure you do a test spot on an unseen part of the board first to make sure you get proper adhesion and there is not going to be a reaction with whats already on the board and the coating you are applying, its unlikely but it could wrinkle, pull, shrink, checking ETC. also use a picture as part of the test to make sure the ink doesn’t bleed. how do you plan on prepping the board?
fyi, no matter what you do…in the end, you’ll have an edge from the pictures, garaunteed. What i said will reduce it, but the epoxy is liquid at all times, even post cure.
over time (2-3mos.), the epoxy will settle and still reveal the edge on the lips that were once non-existant. i’m not sure if it’s actually due to the epoxy flowing out or just contracting/shrinking as the moisture content is reduced.
dirty, I plan on sanding the board down and painting any parts that aren’t covered by photos black.
Hmmm, perhaps this is something I’ll just have to accept without being able to lay down a thick coat. I’ll check with my old professor to see if i can still get my hands on a printer at school. That way I can make the collage in PS, and print just 2 or 3 16"x40" photos to cover the board and reduce seems.
Either that or bite the cost of having a print done at Fed ex so it is seamless on poster paper. I’d like to avoid that, though.
i’d recommend Wilcro Signs on Aero drive in Cheektowaga/Williamsville for a large, quality print. I’ve gotten posters printed that are very near photo quality printed on vinyl with plastic backing for only $20 (36"x24")
Talk to Bob and tell him LAFENGAS sent you. 
ill second the vouch for wilcro. i used to do plaque mounting for them and they were very good to deal with.