Totally forgot about that little VAG snafu. Good look Sailor.
Yeah, however on newer Ross-Tech VAG COM’s and all dealer’s readers now, they’ve been able to bypass that problem even when the k-line is hooked up wrong. I remember having to show pictures of my stereo wiring to dealers, and assure them I knew about the k-line and bypassed it correctly, or else they wouldn’t hook my car up to their stuff. There was a time that an aftermarket radio, hooked up to the K-Line incorrectly, would blow out the dealer’s reader.
The problem with Audi’s was that the aftermarket harness adapters didn’t hook the wiring up correctly. If the person installing knew about the k-line, though, they could just splice around that or reconfigure the harness.
Hope that’s it here, though, as that’s a simple fix.
I’m sure that is what the problem is, at least with the OBD port. Still trying to pinpoint why the car feels like it’s running on 90 HP. (90 HP + Auto + AWD + 3300 lbs = dog) Going to have it checked over my Thanksgiving break.
im not too certain about that. i know my vag com is current as of today, and i have still run into not being able to scan cars w/ aftermarket cd players. granted, the cars in question are older cars b/c the newer cars come loaded w/ ice that no one ****s w/ aftermarket radios anymore.
it is funny that i can scan the complete 2008-2009 audi line, but not a 98 jetta w/ an aftermarket radio…
here is a quick observation-- vag com does not have an autoscan option for the new rs4, and trying to go in as a a4/s4 will not work. so you have to go through the car manually. point being–vag com is an awesome tool, but it has flaws too. for what it is, i like it alot. better than the bosch hammer i use for porsches, or the vedis setup i use for any other obd2 car besides vw/audi/bently. i use this stuff on a daily basis, and the vag com is hands down one of my most valuable tools.
did you check my wastegate sugestion yet? or no time to?
I need to schedule a VAG-COM training session with you. My knowledge/use is limited at best.
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/Main_Page
try playing around w/ that. it will show you what codes mean, probable causes and suggestions on how to fix.
biggest assest is knowing what tables to go into on basic settings for real time values. that kinda comes w/ working w/ stuff. example–when you have a 1.8t misfiring like a mofo, you can go to basic setting and see the number of misfires per cylinder whereas teh cel will just tell you that number 1 is misfiring, basic setting will tell me it misfired x amount of times in a certain period.
if you use the link above, it should answer about 90% of the stuff you run in to.
The car is at home, and i’m in California until next Tuesday. Where do I look for this? All I can really see is the turbo housing itself, and the oil lines to and from it, and obviously the cat. I didn’t have time this past weekend, I’ll pull the plastic covers and check it out when I get home.
well, only way to see it w/o getting to involved is by removing the o2 sensor, and using this tool— 
this saves you from pulling the turbo to see if the wastegate valve is broke.
What does that run? :eek:
$400?
i know a buddy that has one & wants to sell it…let me know if your interested & i’ll get you a price …its a month old & he only used it once…i’m pretty sure he wants around 350ish for it
Like these guys are saying, check the boost level too. I’ve seen 1.8T’s with seized turbos due to not changing the oil, coking up, and blocking the oil feeds.
Found the problem today. My friend (Audi Mechanic at South Hills) thought it was the N75 valve, but that wasn’t the case. He went to put the new valve in and popped the inlet pipe off the turbo, just to check. The turbo is seized. Awesome.
I’m down to a few options. I’m going to either be looking a for a used one, rebuild mine/buy one that’s already rebuilt, or buy a new “cartridge.” The cartridge seems to be the cheapest route.
Dude you have had your fair share of problems with this bucket. Hope after this you get a nice break of worry free driving.
Thanks. I hope I get at least a few months after replacing/rebuilding the turbo before anything else big happens. There are some other smaller issues, but if it ran good (and could make it up hills), that would be great. This car is definitely lemon status thanks to whoever owned it before me, and the guy that did the work when the t-belt broke.
****, if the turbo went, i hate to see what the oil pump looks like.
I’m sure that’s one more thing that will need addressed. This car is living proof of Murphy’s Law so far.
the car just wasn’t maintained… the two biggest things with owning cars is changing the oil and the timing belt… it appears as though both of those were missed on your car. Sucks dude… but don’t blame the car… you can get it fixed, but as vwcabby said, your oil system might be beat right now… If i were you, i’d find a low mile used turbo that someone pulled off their car during an upgrade… flush that motor out and have them check the pan to the head…
Regular oil changes and t-belts are critical on these cars, hence the reason for buying a car with maintainance records and a thorough pre-purchase inspection before parting with any money. I’m really sorry about your experiences Zach, I just hope you blame the previous owner and not the car. This is typical lease car bull****. Please drop the oil pan and check the everything out asap-- I’d hate to see you drop oil pressure because there is all sorts of **** clogging up your oil pickup/ pump.
I don’t necessarily blame the car. I blame the previous owner. I feel that I have taken good care of the thing so far, and stuff just keeps ****ting the bed. I’ve been putting in full synthetic every 4000 miles (one time it got to 5000), and putting in a quart every week or two, depending on how much disappears.
Sonny - That’s what I think I’ll be looking for. A stock takeoff from a car that was upgraded early on.