Recently had my fiancee’s 1998 Integra throw a P0700 and P1706 code. I know the P0700 is just a generic auto tranny code problem. So specifically it’s the P1706 which after some google searching comes up as “Open in Transmission Range Switch Circuit.” Has anyone had any experience with this code before?
From my brief searching it appears people suggest replacing the Automatic Transmission Gear Position Switch. Just seeing if anyone has had first hand experience with this code and what they did to solve the problem. Also, I have no idea but am I looking at a big expense (assuming I pay someone to do the job) with this job or what? Thanks in advance!!
edit- I should also add that these codes have been stored for some time, back to November when I bought the car. Only noticeable symptoms are that the car does shift rather hard from 1st to 2nd but usually gets progressively smoother from each sequential gear change from 2nd-3rd-4th. But it has been driven this way for at least the last 6-7k miles without any trouble. I originally searched and found that these transmissions were known for shifting hard and I didn’t think anything of it since I was unaware of the CEL.
Really? Could you show me where you found this? I don’t really know anything about automatic transmissions so I’m not sure if the shift cable is binding or not. Pretty much all I can describe is that it shifts hard from 1st-2nd, slightly hard from 2nd-3rd, and no problems at all from 3rd-4th. And once it’s warmed up and been driving a while, there’s only a slightly hard shift from 1st-2nd and then smooth the rest of the way.
Does it seem when you shift between park and drive that the shift cable is binding or is the transition easy because sometimes that cable seizes internally which may cause that code.
If you can find a website that lists all the svc. bulletins it is one of them for that code p1706
No the transition from park to drive is very smooth. There’s no resistance from park to reverse, to drive, or any of the gears so I don’t think then that would be the problem. I’m wondering if more people have found the A/T Gear Position Switch to be at fault.
---------- Post added at 11:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:12 PM ----------
P1706 is a code for the transmission range switch where the computer thinks that the switch is “open”.
There is a service bulletin for the P1706 code. The shaft the range switch sits on could be too loose causing a false code. You can take off the switch and spread the shaft with a screwdriver (the center of the shaft is cutout to allow this) and make the shaft fit tighter in the range switch. This could be the problem. If not then you’ll have to replace the range switch. The shaft should be 6.1MM wide. If it’s already that wide then you probably need a new switch.
So I’m thinking I’ll have to have that switch looked at and/or replaced.
On a side note, seeing as the car’s been driven like this for at least 7k miles now, am I continuing to cause more damage as I drive or can it be left as is?
Ok, bumping this up again as I’m still having issues. About 5k miles ago I had the Gear Position Switch replaced and had the transmission fluid flushed twice with OEM Honda ATF. While this did help improve the shifting a little, it’s still not where I would like it to be. There’s still some hesitation going from 1st-2nd and 2nd-3rd and they can be hard at times, usually when colder. Once warmed up there’s less hesitation and smoother shifting. Had the same code P1706 come back on randomly the other day, which kinda prompted me to give this another go.
So I’ve been reading up more on some possible solutions and it seems the most common remedies are these:
-Adjusting throttle cable and kickdown cable
-Testing the TPS and replacing if faulty
-Inspecting the TCM/TCU and replacing if necessary
I’d like to try adjusting the cables first since it’s the simplest (and free). I have seen how to adjust the throttle cable and it looks pretty easy, although there has been some debate as to how much or how little slack there should be in the cable. Also, from what I’ve gathered on other forums, nobody seems to have a clear way of explaining how to adjust the kickdown cable. Some people mentioned adjusting it by the throttle body and others said down by the transmission. If anyone could possibly clear this up that would be awesome. Pictures are always great, or if anyone has a link to a good DIY thread. Any help is appreciated guys, feel free to reply here or PM.