Thanks in part to this thread I’m selling my Jetta and picking up an E36 328. I haven’t found a specific one yet, but it looks like 80k-100k miles will get me to what I’m looking to spend. Hopefully she’ll go to 150-200k without a lot of cash being dumped into her.
Should be win/win. I’ve got 85,000 miles on the Jetta with $9000 left on the loan. So I sell her for $9,000 and get a same mileage 328 for the same price. Granted it’ll be a couple years older but I figure the bimmer will last better and hold its value better over the next few years than the Jetta.
First number, model series ie: 7 series
Second numbers, engine size ie: 4.0 liter
-the “i” originally stood for fuel injection back in the 70s-80s. but they just got used to it and never dropped it.
-the “L” stands for long wheel base
-the “s” originally stood for sport package (usually included heavier springs, sway bars, LSD, sport seats, body moulding, etc) but starting in E36 generation is merely stood for a 2dr coupe.
-the “e” stood for Eta (means economy) was a low reving, lower hp, high torque motor
-an “x” stands (and still holds true) for AWD.
however starting in the mid 80s engine sizes started coming out weird and they liked the even numbers. E30 325e really has a 2.7L engine. E46 323i really has a 2.5L. E38 740iL really has a 4.4L.
too many electrical gizmos. sure they’re nice when they work, but 7 series electronics always seem to give out. they make great lease cars for this reason. 5 series honestly is the best bet. big 4 door car functionallity, great handling, not as many fancy electrical things to break.
Mike you seem to know your stuff. Wanna reassure me that I’m making a good move swapping (well, attempting to) an '01 Jetta VR6 with 85k miles for a 97-99 328iS with 80-100k? Money should stay the same (I’ve got 9k on my Jetta loan, which I should be able to sell it for, and which I should be able to get the bimmer for.)
Basically, I just want a 3 series. But I’m justifying it by thinking that the 3 series will be more reliable over the next 50k than the Jetta. Agree?
late model E36’s are good cars. reliable, fun to drive, and honestly parts prices are really not that bad if you know where to look. the M50/52 engine is like a chevy small block. can make all sorts of displacements by playing with bore and stroke. engine will easily run over 250k. take a look at this post about stock clutch life in the E36 M3. might give you some indications how reliable they can be.
There’s really not that much electronic difference between the e38 740 and e39 540. In fact most of the problems are related to the cooling and intake stuff. That V8 is one of the worst engines BMW ever built from long term reliability standpoint. You are probably looking at all new gaskets on the top end every 100k.
Slushbox is anotehr big issue - they can not hold the V8(and later I6) power and roast at around 100k ($4k to replace).
On the flip side electronic problems are a lot easier to trobuleshoot than earlier cars(e34 and e32) due to introduction of the bus systems - so there’s lot less wiring through the car.
With 54K you will replace the cooling system in the next 10k unless it is allready been done (new radiator, new hoses, water pump, fan, fan clutch). You will need to replace all the fluids (transmission fluid, diff fluid etc. even thouhg BMW says it is lifetime). Might need some manifold/valve cover gaskets…
Tranny will last 100k+ if taken care of… past that - you’re on borrowed time.
Here are transmission costs: http://www.europeantransmissions.com/Tranisite/BMW.htm#7_series
5 series manual will not retorfit into 7 as far as I know - you need the 840 one (little more rare to say the least). 4k is for the rebuilt ones…with core.
6spd conversion price example: http://www.koalamotorsport.com/conversions.asp
The e39 is just all around more fun to drive. It’s slightly lighter. But I have to say the e38 has more of that “bad ass” look -as long as you keep it stock.