The idea is to let him Dos it so we can point and laugh, er, I mean, well, umm.
Just keep to car talk Dad. 
me. personally…
id much rather buy a clean model for 10-15k more that might have higher mileage but never been wrecked.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge-Viper-GTS-VIPER-GTS-12K-MILES-SIDE-EXHAUST-2-PIECE-WHEELS-L-K_W0QQitemZ320411348734QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUS_Cars_Trucks?hash=item4a9a012efe&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245 like so… wonder where that one ends up
didnt mean to cause any drama, and the money would be cash, i figured about 10k in repairs
ok dos… let me know how that m5 works out
Fuck it im quitting my job and changing oil/doing inspections for a living…
I really with Dan would post up he would have some good insight on this topic.
I don’t see why this is a terrible idea if you repair it properly and the frame isn’t fucked. You should try to source all the parts before you purchase something like this so you don’t end up with some huge miscalculation on your end.
Yup, a bunch of guys that have no idea on the internet say its going to cost $10k to fix… probably should just write a check, I’m sure that’ll come in on budget…
Can that car be repaired? Sure it can. But the cost? 10K? Not in a million years. It would cost ME more than 10K to put that together, at MY cost, on MY time.
The frame would be fine if done correctly. You DO NOT pull and fill those frames, nor heat and bend. Cut off bad section, weld on replacement section- no other correct way to do it.
That repair bill, if done as an insurance job, would EASILY be north of 25K. I can see almost 20 grand in parts right off the bat, not including literally a complete disassembly of the front of the car, frame repair, reassembly and paint.
Take my word: You do not buy a Viper and repair it unless it is strictly body, or VERY minor. It will cost you more to do so than to just buy one that isn’t wrecked, and it wont take a huge value hit to boot either. If that car was worth repairing, the company that is selling it would have already done it- and that’s even at THEIR cost for parts, considering they are a Viper salvage yard! There is probably something they arent telling you- broken engine mounting tab, tweaked frame spine or cabin, hood support damage, etc.
You have to keep in mind, that as much as some of the people on here conveniently forget how much the Viper costs, you are buying parts for an 80-110K+ car.
I would spend some extra and get one that is not a salvage title. It will at least be worth something when you want to move it.
The only thing that car is good for is parts. Not to become a running car again.
he turned down my offer of 15 grand, o well just gonna keep looking =/
:facepalm:
What?
I am worried about the UB engineering department if he is really a product of it
Someone’s got to be on the left side of the normal distribution.
The only think that would have made that geekier is if you said bell curve
Why don’t you just take a loan out or save up the money you were planning on spending to FIX that one, and buy a higher mileage Red 96-98 GTS [30-35ish for a decent one] that hasn’t been wrecked rather than repair one? At least you will get a car to drive sooner, and you can always trade up at a later date to a newer one if you want to while driving the older one and saving a bit more. The market is in the tank right now, and there was never a better time to buy, it seems to have hit the bottom.
^Agree. Even if you fix it up to 100% factory standards, you’ll always have the stigma of the salvage title, at 7/8’s the price of a clean one. If the parts weren’t so pricey, maybe this would be a good option, but if it’s gonna run $30K to fix, why not go $35K on a value-stable example?
Hell, a die-hard Viper guy is saying walk, take his advice.
Griff would be an interesting person to comment here, as he’s done a few mid-range car rescues. :tup:
i have a 3.2 gpa, 80% of the mechanical engineers in my classes didnt know what a piston was used for when i got there as a freshman, dont say stupid things =)
i would be on the left if i brained my damage (think hard to another thread you recently added too lol)
thats the plan unless i come accross something super cheap, they have a few in the 30-40k range that will probably be what i end up with
Its not stupid at all… and everything you state really does not bode well for the engineering dept. at UB. GPA also means shit, but I will leave this discussion for another day.