I had to change the cam position sensor therefore timing is off
OH. Good catch
Its going to max the 450’s out real fast so you might want to order injectors. Even at 15psi the duty cycle is going to be up there
Yes but he should fix the problem first.
what are 550’s good for boost wise? Or should I get 650’s?
They are good for power, not boost. It’s more on a car by car basis too. I am too tired to do the math. 
:deadhorse this is how i feel about my car. Its been on the road for 3 day and Ive broke two alternator belts.
I set the timing now and have a good belt so Im hoping Ill have better results once I get out of work.
Anyone have a suggestion about getting a logger? I dont know too much about them but I know they are good to have.
SCANMASTER.
fix the problem, but for injectors, 660’s will be enough fuel for the evo3 16g… it will leave you plenty of room even at high boost levels. ive seen 660s on a dsm do 22psi on an FP green. not much left in them, but thats alot more airflow than the evo3
Thats also what i plan on running, 22psi on the 16g. Im looking for injectors on, I have a 255 pump, and i need a logger. For now its at least timed and runs good just cruising around and not running lean accelerating.
Hotwire Kit and a AFPR.
so i rewired my pump and fixed my boost line and found out my boost just keeps increasing but it doesnt seem like boost creep and i have my MBC as loose as i can. the boost goes up steady and quick i dont know how to turn it down, i even tried hooking up a straight vacuum line to the actuator and it keeps climbing.
What kind of 16g is it? My buddy like a retard didnt listen to me and bought a junk ebay one and the thing just spikes like crazy. Also what kind of boost controller is it?
mitsu evo 3 big 16g its not an ebay turbo. and the boost controler is home made, i had it on my last car so i know it works.
is your wastegate line coming from the compressor housing? oil up the pin on the wastegate flap? that is im assuming its an internal wastegate.
:ponder
the oil would just burn off and not do anything. its in the exhaust housing
you can get it to seep in there, take the actuator arm and move the flap by hand to loosen it up. Like i said this might not be the problem.
I blew air into the actuator line and it moves so thats good. I’ve tried going off the stock vacuum line routing with no boost controller, everything leads to over boosting. I was thinking I had boost creep but it doesn’t stop/pause then creep. Also my gauge seems to work when its cold then when the car heats up the gauge sticks, I changed the lines as well as the gauge and it does the same thing?