Sorry to hear about ur car Burnyd. You’ll get her up and running again soon.
As for the fuel cut defender…Why would u cut fuel if the turbo is overboosting??? Wouldn’t the ecu pull timing and dump in more fuel? I was curious about the injector size on the mr2. Dan told me these cars run 7lbs stock. It still baffles me how u can raise boost up to 13psi (nearly double) and still be safe w/o an upgraded fuel system. Is he leaning out is a/f ratio or what? (more boost but not enough fuel to compensate) if so, this could be the cause of the headgasket…increased combustion chamber temps due to lean a/f mix.
heard 14#s tonight, i guess if thats true he wanted his 13slip so bad instead of making it happen with driving he did what most ppl do and make more power and risk setups. if this was the case
or that his rival the dude that he snitched on sabotagized his ride
Yeah if he pulled off a 14.0, a 13.8-9 should be no problem (on the same boost level as the 14 run). I’d go out on a limb and say that dan is not a consistent enuff drag racer to say that he’s maxed out the car’s capabilities just yet…and that’s not an insult toward dan…a slightly better 60ft or better shift points would’ve easily gotten him into the 13’s
so he probably turned up boost was too greedy and it caused the gasket to pop but proceeded to drive with a bad overheating issue which could of crakced that head[this being worse case senario]
burnyd, sorry to hear about your car. i’m sure jeff will get you fixed up though.
god this thread sucks… I never knew that online mechanics were able to tell exactly what happened without even looking at the car! thats fucking amazing! shit happens and it will get fixed no big deal
Possibility. He def needs a A/F Ratio gauge & maybe a Pyrometer. U start cranking up the boost, those 2 gauges become very important. Hopefully the head is not warped or cracked. He did say he was driving normally when his car started to act up (luckily he wasn’t doggin’ it),but most likely the initial damage was probably done at the track…Probably just took a few days for the problem to actually surface.
a/f blinky gauges are for girls.
on a side note to clear up something kolar mentioned in this thread earlier, it’s not a “psi” that the ecu reads but a calculation of the amount of air…remember that psi is relative it’s the volume of air the ecu determains as too much and cuts fuel/spark
for example a t25@10lbs won’t cause a factory dsm to fuel cut but a 50 trim@10psi would. most factory turbo cars use maf’s pre turbo rather than a map sensor post turbo…they have no idea what kind of pressure the engine is seeing they can only calculate how much air is passing through the maf.
hope that helps
Good point. Only time will tell what actually caused the failure
i guess… not ‘most’ turbo cars have no map sensor… all vw audi’s since the 80’s have had both maf /map… maybe most DSM’s, but whatever!
My car is map based, so i guess i have a preconceived notion about how things work…haha
dsms are maf/map based.
but most turbo car ecus reads fuel cut off the maf not the map. 
:whitey:
not really… if hte maf sensor goes south the fuel cut is still in place… my maf has been shot and unplugged for over a year. but OK… nothign worth arguing over.
MAP isn’t the best way to do a factory turbo car. All it takes is a boost leak which leads to high charge temps to cause issues.
MAF is smart because if your airflow goes to high (IE: boostleak) the car will automatically start overcompensating with too much fuel. Worst case scenerio is airflow gets so high the ecu registers this and fuel cuts.
Thats why turning turbo hondas on the stock MAP worries me so much. Boost leaks happen and can be fatal. Not only that but Hondata used to have a serious compensation issue with IAT’s with respect to your target A/F ratio. IE: The more injector compensation you programmed the further you would be from your target A/F ratio when the air temperature changed.
Another reason MAP sucks. MAP ass-u-mes a certian VE when tuned. If you chnage cams you change the VE curve of the engine. The MAP based ecu will not compensate and you can easilly run lean. Same way if you changed you exhaust setup on a MAP car. A MAF car automatically compensates for this.
For all out racing though MAP is the most efficient and responsive setup. MAP is excellent for N/A cars as well.
STFU noob