What parts do you have that might be re-used? If you are starting from scratch, you could do far worse than a GM crate motor. The 425hp ZZ383 (pn 12498772) runs around $5K. Just add a distributor, intake, carb, and go. There are many other places to get a decent “crate” motor.
But if you have parts already, that may not be the best route.
If you want, I could build a engine on DynoSym for you and let you know what it mae with what parts.
…Ive been bored lately.
[quote=“Way2Slow,post:10,topic:38069"”]
GM cast iron vortec heads with some work, 11.8:1 compression, Victor Jr intake, Crane 224/230@.050 .488/.510 lift 112 750 carb,3600 stall… cheap setup to go fast
[/quote]
Not a bad combo here. I would change a few things if it were mine though. Compression I would take down to 10.1. especially if your driving this car on the street. Detonation is not your friend. Also go with the intake that Articzap mention, the airgap intake manifold. The victor junior’s powerband is 3,500 to 7,000 rpm, on up to 4,500 to 8,000 rpm. Way overkill for a street car running Vortecs.
[quote=“articzap,post:20,topic:38069"”]
Vortec heads, 1.6 rockers, mild cam(since the compression won’t be that high you don’t need an overly aggressive cam), air gap intake, 650 carb, and some short headers with dual 2.5" exhaust.
3.73’s and a 3500 stall would compliment that setup very well.
[/quote]
Scratch the 1.6’s and pick the right cam. Everything else looks good. Not a fan of the Shorty headers though.
My uncle and I used a set of vortecs on his stingray corvette and I must say it REALLY woke up and the price was spot on too.
How many of these threads do I have to inject reality into?
This is a bone stock 84 TA.
you need a tranny, a rear end, subframes, exhaust and a bunch of other crap for that car to survive a dozen passes that are in the 12s. This isn’t just about building a truck motor and putting it in, its about making a car that will run 12s on weekends and get you to work M-F.
If it was going to be as cheap as you think it will, I would have done it. Fortunatey, I spoke with Paul before getting too involved with the car, and then quickly sold it to you before I spent any money on it. You seriously need like $3,000 in the bank before you take on a project like this. $2000 for parts (at least) and $1000 for someone to build it.
Lots of good info in this thread. It all comes down to your budget and what parts you have already. Rich Krause mentioned a GM crate engine which are serious bang for the buck. If you already have a stout short block you can’t beat GM Vortec iron heads, 10.5:1 compression and the right camshaft to match your combo
[quote=“J&J,post:25,topic:38069"”]
Lots of good info in this thread. It all comes down to your budget and what parts you have already. Rich Krause mentioned a GM crate engine which are serious bang for the buck. If you already have a stout short block you can’t beat GM Vortec iron heads, 10.5:1 compression and the right camshaft to match your combo
[/quote]
Listen to that man! The Vortec heads are damn good and cheap. PN 12558060 is available fully assembled for ~$275/head.
[FONT=Univers-Black][SIZE=1]
[LEFT]12558060[/LEFT]
[LEFT]Cast Iron Vortec Cylinder Head Assembly[/LEFT]
[LEFT]• Completely assembled with 1.94”/1.50” valves
• Uses bare head 12529093
• 64cc combustion chamber
• Straight spark plugs
• No heat risers
• Requires Vortec specific intake manifold
• Camshafts with more than 0.475" lift require machining
valve guide bosses and checking valve seal to valve
spring retainer clearance
• Can be machined for 2.02"/1.60" valves
• Rocker arm studs can be pinned or drilled[/LEFT]
• Valve spring seat diameter is 1.48"
[/SIZE][/FONT]
The bare head PN 12529093 is nearly the same price. Go figure GMPP’s prices??? But even if you upgrade the springs, you are still talking less than $750 for a pair of really good heads ready to bolt on. With a decent cam, intake, and carb these heads are good for >350hp.
yeah 350 blocks are chiep. Thanks for the info guys, it is much appreciated.
And Jack…I am looking for the best rout to go. I am saving money little by little so I can buy my shit. I want to know the best rout to go so I know how much $ I should plan on spending. Proper prior planning > winging it and spending a shit load more $ than you need to.
I was thinking something like this
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_376471_-1
I simply stated that you should have $3000 saved up before even buying sparkplugs.
Just because the heads are $250ea doesn’t mean your tranny won’t get smoked on its first pass…
[quote=“Jack,post:28,topic:38069"”]
I simply stated that you should have $3000 saved up before even buying sparkplugs.
Just because the heads are $250ea doesn’t mean your tranny won’t get smoked on its first pass…
[/quote]
truth 700r4’s are weaksauce
go with a th350, but than you sacrifice daily driveability (carbed 350 and 4 speed auto w/o overdrive=not fuel efficient)
have you totally thought this one through?, something tells me you havent
he could do a mild built 4L60E… do they mate with gen 1 sbc?
anyways they have OD and 400hp isnt going to break a mild built 4L60E
[quote=“ImportMuscle,post:29,topic:38069"”]
have you totally thought this one through?, something tells me you havent
[/quote]
Are you not in a JEG thread? Is this your first time?
[quote=“Jack,post:28,topic:38069"”]
I simply stated that you should have $3000 saved up before even buying sparkplugs.
Just because the heads are $250ea doesn’t mean your tranny won’t get smoked on its first pass…
[/quote]
Oh I know exactly what you mean. That way I can get the stuff at once instead of alittle here and there and constantly being broke and I’ll never see it finished.
cough
best of luck with whatever you do, but just sayin…
[quote=“turbo ls1 ss,post:30,topic:38069"”]
he could do a mild built 4L60E… do they mate with gen 1 sbc?
anyways they have OD and 400hp inst going to break a mild built 4L60E
[/quote]
same 90 degree bell housing… i think…
but hes gonna have to find a whole different way to control the tranny,and for what little amount of money he’s willing to spend…
700R4 works fine, the 4L60E is electronically controlled. I’ve had my 700R4 for 4 years now. The vortec heads work great. Try to find a 350 from a 96-97 pickup.