No turnin back now man! Rear quarters fit awesome!!
Oh! I need ideas for my euro plate…
so far only idea I have is “HAND BUILT” using various wierd euro letter/characters like the “u” with the two dots above it and such…any other ideas? I’d like to order one soon so it’s here by the time I’m finished
STILLFWD
Awesome job
Even though it’s a euro only model and what you’re doing is really cool, you’re going to get a lot of strange looks running a euro plate on what (for all intents and purposes) looks like a body-kitted Ford Focus.
lol
This is awesome. Keep at it man it looks great so far. Sucks about the front fenders but seems like you have it under control. Also, any details on the XR4ti you had the grill laying on? I have a soft spot for those things. I’d kill for a real Sierra Cosworth.
it’s not local…that a TX car, belonging to a fellow named Glenn that built a TRUE RS, part-for-part…he has spent north of $40k so that every single part is OEM Focus RS imported from the UK. The xr4ti Is his “other RS”, it’s gorgeous.
I’ve known this bonehead for a long time and seen him get into some serious projects… but jesus Nick. Good luck buddy. Get it back together.
Old pics I have of the car.
Us at a focus meet 3 or 4 years ago
^ man do I miss the euro bumpers! I loved the way the car looked back then, stupid car accidents ruining it 
Anyways, I’ve ordered my euro plate and german reg decals:
went with “hand made”
put another coat of body filler on the front driver fender
Then removed the rub strip from the hatch to attack the rust spots:
Then I made sure to document the process of how to cut the quarterpanels to isntall the fiberglass RS replica parts…
Start out by measuring in a few spots and marking 2" off the edge of the door jam, then eye-ball the same curve like so:
then, your cut line is going to be only about a 1/16" above the recessed area where the rub strip is. measure along that line 16" from the door jam as a rough starting point like so:
then from here your cut line is going to gradually make its way up to the current flair’s body line, and continue similar to the rub strip area, just a 1/16" or less above the current indent
then your going to cut about 1/16" or less along the actual fender-well so that the whole panel comes off, included the flange with the spotwelds
Next, cut along the bottom of the rocker, just after it rolls underneath. Then remove the huge chunk you just cut out:
at this point, you will want to bevel the fiberglass panel like I did in the previous post where I did the other side’s QP and do a series of test fits, adjusting the cut until you end up with perfect fitment…then use a file to de-burr the inside edge so nothing can interfere when you bond the fiberglass flair to the metal
(I’ll pick up from here tomorrow)
Comin along!
Well, my weekend went like crap because I agreed to help out a co-worker and do her front wheel bearings on her 2008 escape…and I ended up recieving a deffective motorcraft bearing from RockAuto and had to re-do the entire job all over again…11hrs total on my saturday 
Anyways, Sunday morning after I cut my lawn and trimmed my shrubs I found a little time to block-sand out the driver fender and check it out with some primer…still needs a little more work but it’s coming along nicely.
That looks really good…kudos to you for keeping at it!
It is amazing how this “knowledge” can/will spread like wild fire. I had to start telling people in my office I don’t work on cars anymore… :gotme:
progress i looking good. i love that others share the idea of cutting up a perfectly good car. haha.
question, what kind of glass products do you use? i was looking at the west systems stuff for my boat.
I order 90% of my supplies online. I have been dealing fairly explusively with Fibreglast.com (by reccomendation of Lafengas when I first started into this stuff)…but recently I’ve discovered a far cheaper source for gelcoats … illstreet composites (don’t have the link off hand)
My most recent purchase in preparation for the magnitute of this project was purchasing an 80lb 50" wide roll of 1.5oz fiberglass chopped strand matt on ebay for about $170 shipped…I couldnt TOUCH that price anywhere else online. I’ve been buying 3M polyester resin from Home Depot because it’s literally $12 cheaper per gallon than the bondo brand at advance auto or autozone.
My reccomendation though for a boat would be definitely go with an epoxy resin rather than polyester. It’s NOT cheap…how much work does the boat need? Epoxy Resin is over $100/gal
although, my stepdad SWEARS by west systems, he used it for all the fairings and whatnot on his airplane he just finished building.
coming along very nicely! :tup:
some stuff I ordered came in…
Euro plate w/mount and reg stickers
The panel bond I ordered came in, but the size when ordering online was VERY decieving. I was originally only going to order one package, but there was a $50 minimum order so I ordered two plus the dispenser you see attached to the product. I’m REALLY hoping one package will be enough for one side so I don’t have to go and order more :-/
besides that, nothing to report LOL
Is this AWD yet?!?!?
I waited too long and the Jag is gone. I haz no monies for a donor car right now anyways. maybe next year…
