DIY Basement Renovation Project: Adding Bedroom and Bath.

[LAFENGAS]

Figured i may as well start a thread mid-process. Since i now have 2 kids, I chose to put each kid in their own room up on the 2nd floor, plus there is a loft up there that can be used as a play room which keeps everything up there.

So I decided to put a bed/bath in the basement for the wifey and I …as well as help make the unit more rentable when it comes time.

here was the clean slate, the day i took ownership:

Here’s a general layout of the basement and what i’m hoping to accomplish:

What needs to be done:

1.) Move support post: one support post is in the proposed living space, and will be relocated. W8x15 support beam can support the added unbraced distance of the support relocation

2.) Add a decent sized bathroom: Install a bathroom in the proximity of the existing sewer line. sewage pump will need to be installed to pump poop to the sewer

3.) Storage Space: Would like some decent usable storage space

4.) Bedroom and Closet: add a decent sized bedroom and closet, keep the high cielings where possible and adding drop cieling where needed to access utilities above.

I decided to go with steel beams for the framing for a few reasons. 1.) the walls are not load bearing. 2.) steel doesn’t warp or mold 3.) Price is nearly the same as a wood 2x4. 4.) lightweight and easy to handle. 5.) I like metal.

[BigRon]

should be fun to watch, good luck

[Motocrossx23]

If you’re going to go with any kind of subflooring, I recommend Dri-Core. It’s $6.78 a tile (2’x2’) so it’s somewhat expensive, but it makes the basement soo much more comfortable and less feeling like you’re underground. I used it when I refinished my basement this past spring :tup:

[tpgsr]

:tup: looks like a cool project

[LAFENGAS]

I hired BreakStuff (aka BRAD) to do the plumbing for the bath. Who has done an awesome job, btw.

Day 1: layout of the walls and plumbing for the bath:

Day 2: Prep for concrete cutting

Day 3: Saw Cut and Break the concrete: (dusty as shit)

4hrs Later:

Started the framing, same day:

Day 4: Brad ran all the plumbing and I backfilled all the concrete. Sewage pump buried and running into the existing sewer lines.

more framing:

bathroom walls going up:

hallway walls in the back:

closet in the back right, framed for 36" pocket doors:

Day 5, more hallway framing: ( Notice the support post has been pulled.)

Walls up, Electrical run. Notice the Red Support Post. I cut a 18"x18" section of concrete floor out and poured a 12" pad for the new support beam to rest on (waited 3 days for the concrete to setup before putting any load on it)

Day 9: Framing complete, I-beam boxed in…READY TO DRYWALL:

Brad/Breakstuff did a superb job running all the plumbing for the shower. Everything was pressure tested and no leaks.

Shower:

Storage Closet:

Day 14: drywalling:

Closet:

Day 20: finishing work on the drywall (still need to work on the bath)

Sprained my wrist… in an effort to get the job done quickly…i have outsourced the drywall finishing work to a contracter.

Hoping to have the finishing work done in a few days. By the end of next week i should have the primer/paint done and the carpet and hardwood installed.

Will keep it updated for those looking for ideas on how to do this type of renovation for themselves.

:tup: !

---------- Post added at 03:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:54 PM ----------

@Motocrossx23

If you’re going to go with any kind of subflooring, I recommend Dri-Core. It’s $6.78 a tile (2’x2’) so it’s somewhat expensive, but it makes the basement soo much more comfortable and less feeling like you’re underground. I used it when I refinished my basement this past spring :tup:

I saw this stuff and was going to get it…but my basement is SUPER dry. When i went through the home inspection the inspector found that pump wasn’t fully plugged into the outlet and not working…the previous homeowners have no idea how long it has been like that since they never touched it. There was no sign of any water. Plus the drain tile ties into the adjacent units giving me 2 fail safes if my pump were to actually fail.

needless to say, i opted against the subflooring to save myself $800+ in materials.

[ProgRocker]

Erection-tastic!

Was there a sump pump in there before?

[LAFENGAS]

@ProgRocker

Erection-tastic!

Was there a sump pump in there before?

sump pump was there…its on the opposite side of the room from the basement. I installed the sewage sump in the bathroom though. So there are two pumps in the basement. One for the residual water and one for the poo poo.

[TurboTSi]

Looks awesome! Can’t wait to see the finished product, especially the finishing touches in the bathroom. The shower head is pimp.

[tpgsr]

WOW… I will be doing this soon, but with a different end goal. Mine is going to be a rec room, bar, pantry, walk in cooler, and workshop. I like the idea of the bedroom in the basement, it will keep you nice and secluded from the kids.

[LAFENGAS]

@tpgsr

I like the idea of the bedroom in the basement, it will keep you nice and secluded from the kids.

CHA CHING!

Mike…wait 'til you see the grill i picked up…you’re going to get a raging boner. start aging some meat …3…2…1… now.

[breakstuff]

1.) LMK when the tile is set
2.) The pressure test can be voided via drywall screws… be carefull! (for the 5023th time)

[JDMSIR]

In, looks like a great project.

[LAFENGAS]

@breakstuff

1.) LMK when the tile is set
2.) The pressure test can be voided via drywall screws… be carefull! (for the 5023th time)

I protected the vanity pipework with steel plates so nobody in the future will accidently the whole thing!

[Xander]

Nice work, never thought about it, but with steel studs you don’t have to worry about walls being nice and flat, that’s a given. :tup:

x…

[ProgRocker]

Noob question:

Do you have to use the metal framing for basements/concrete?

[JustinH]

The only thing I would recommend looking into is having the basement tested for radon before you move in down there.

If you do have radon, it can be fixed pretty easy by digging a hole in the concrete, and running PVC pipe into a radon fan, and out of the house.

[tpgsr]

@ProgRocker

Noob question:

Do you have to use the metal framing for basements/concrete?

No, but it is a really good thing to do. Aluminum will not rot or rust and it does not hold moisture like wood.

@JustinH

The only thing I would recommend looking into is having the basement tested for radon before you move in down there.

If you do have radon, it can be fixed pretty easy by digging a hole in the concrete, and running PVC pipe into a radon fan, and out of the house.

Agreed, however the home inspector probably did a radon test. My old house was about 3/10 of a mile from there and when we sold they had a mandatory radon test due to the houses location. Our house passed, but some neighbors were not so lucky.

[ProgRocker]

@tpgsr

No, but it is a really good thing to do. Aluminum will not rot or rust and it does not hold moisture like wood.

Gotcha…Probably will help my dad with some basement remodeling at some point. It was done by my grandpa in the 50s, back when anything goes.

[slo_ride]

another cheaper less ‘ready made’ option is to use a product called platon which was actually originally designed as an exterior foundation waterproofing and drainage membrane…

it is basically the same as the plastic portion of the dri-core panels except it comes in roll form… used it in my own basement below concrete board and it has worked out great

although its probably too late now as you have framed up all the walls… no point in putting in any kind of dampproofing if it isn’t going to be continuous

[travisn]

@tpgsr

WOW… I will be doing this soon, but with a different end goal. Mine is going to be a rec room, bar, pantry, walk in cooler, and workshop. I like the idea of the bedroom in the basement, it will keep you nice and secluded from the kids.

yea, yea. sure, sure. http://www.nyspeed.com/showthread.php?81264-DIY-Walk-in-Cooler-(not-really-auto-related...)/page2