Im concidering getting a 1g dsm for my summer project and was wondering what the benifits were to stroking (2.3) the 2.0 4g63t, also i havent seen many dsm’s on the bottle either.
I’ve owned a 7.8:1 2.0 car, an 8.5:1 2.0 car, and a 8.3:1 2.3, and the 2.3 wins hands down. The 2.3 car weighs about ~500 pounds more than the 7.8 car, FWIW.
The 8.5 wasn’t modded much, so I’ll leave it out.
The 7.8:1 had the usual 272 variant cams (FP2s) a SMIM, and a 35R sized turbo (non BB.) Lag was to be expected, but driving around town sucked. The car just lost all low end grunt, and I felt like I was ringing the engine out higher than I wanted to just to get it moving. Rev’d to 8500 on a stock head/block (other than cams, MLS gasket, and ARPs).
The 2.3 has HKS 272s, a SMIM, and bumped compression, and also has a BB 3082R. However, I don’t attribute around town stuff to the turbo selection anyways, as I’m trying to compare off-boost characteristics. The 2.3 feels a lot better on the low end (spoolin steve can attest to this.) I can shift sooner, and go up hills without being at 4500 and in boost 
Built head/block, I run it to 7500. Many people run them higher, I choose not to for longevity purposes (not trying to spin anything) since I’m still a n00b at 2.3 common problems. Maybe once I read up on some things (I’ve just been DDing the car, really) I’ll feel comfortable spinning it to 8500 or so like everyone else.
Just my .02, YMMV
It would depend on what exactly you are trying to accomplish with the car.
If you are looking into drag racing it alot. You will have to consider what turbo choice you want plus how the gearing is in the tranny and where that will put your motor’s rpm in a drag application. Running out of gear and revs on the motor sucks for drag racing. It will kill your times and mph thru the traps due to rev limit or having to shift to next gear.
8500 seems to be the limit for the 2.3 and that is pushing it on piston speeds. The rod angle is less favorable than the 2.0 so as far as longevity it may not live as long before a rebuild is warranted
If you pair the 2.3 up with a proper turbo setup it can be a beast for the streets. With good off boost response and the ability to spool up the turbo quite a bit quicker.
In the end you need to be honest with yourself about what you want to do with the car. If drag racing and topend street racing is your thing you may not want the 2.3
I like rpms
+1
That is why I built the 2.0 it will work for any turbo setup I wish to and not have to worry about lack of revs. Having a motor that can touch 10k rpm is a nice cushion hahaha
Don’t.
i dont know everything about dsm’s but i agree with t70 dont i had a tsi with a 2.4 and it was nothing but trouble
Let’s hear why.
Straight line, up to this point, is 2.0 dominated, and I’m not arguing that it’s easier and proven to go very fast by revving high. However, for a practical street application, well, read my post. My car runs every day, has never stranded me, and flows ~50lbs/min at like 23psi. I’m not complaining, that’s all.
It all depends on what you want. 2.4s are harder to build than a 2.3 since you are swapping alot more than just the rotating assembly. If you stroke it you cant rev it, if you stay 2.0 you need to rev the piss out of it.
I’m undecided. Jesse’s car is very nice around town. 4g64 based 2.4’ setups on evos reportedly can spool a 4088r by 4k. then you have 4k of boost powerband ontop of great off boost power. That would be one hell of a streetcar. Chances are you are not going to get a turbo as big as a 40r.
If youre straight up drag racing, build a 2.0 or 2.1 (destroked 4g64) and rev it to 10k. Its simple as that. Chances are you are not going to need to rev it to 10k and chances are you are not going to have a 42r or something of that nature.
So really its all in what you want. Tell us some more specific goals.
Larry did YOU build the 2.4? did you get the right timing gears(or adjustable ones setup right), what timing belt was used, etc etc. I’m curious to know.
oh and PERSONALLY. I want to stick with a 2.0 or maybe a 2.4. My reasoning is all in the ability to keep your oil squirters. It is extremely hard to fit the squirters in a 4g63 block with a 64 crank. I know everyone in the dsm community rips them out. I like to drive my cars and I just like the idea of have squirters cooling the wristpin and piston as well as lubricating it and the cylinder walls.
are they needed? NO. I just like them.
High HP motors I’ve seen (600+) Everyone takes out the squirters, including mine. Dumb reason to choose one motor over the other.
You may like cooling the wrist pin but I for one, hate having my pistons unevenly cooled because only 1 side is getting hit.
the more cubes teh better for a street motor IMO
2.1 destroke for some 10k rpm wild hotness
DSM? This thread should have been titled “To sell or not to sell”
I think you can guess my answer to that.
dumb reason? maybe. thats why I added it in under my personal reasons at the end.
the stroker is nice but be prepared to not have a lot of top end. a buddy of mine has a 2.3 with a gt14 turbo. traps 101 in the 1/8th but then 126 in the 1/4. so kinda falls on its face.
nice and torquey though, i kinda liked it.
A few things about the above post :
GT14 = bolt on turbine housing, killing top end regardless.
25mph picked up through the back-end isn’t terrible? It’s not some amazing number, but it certainly isn’t like it went 101 and then 115.
http://dsmtimes.org/times.php?Page=1
Plenty of cars that picked up 25-30mph through the ass end.
I also want to say that I’m not some stroker nut-swinger. If this car didn’t have it in it when purchased, I probably would never own one. I’m more or less playing devil’s advocate, and just defending it in a (seemingly) bias argument, that’s all.
sorry i didnt word it right, didnt mean it fell on its face, just didnt accelerate like you think it would after the start it had.
Also if you look at the tq dropoff from the stroker cams in my car you’d see they lost over 250ftlbs between 7 and 8k. I know I have a 2.0 but just stating that’s part of why it doesn’t feel so great.
That sounds like the right way to rename a thread that starts as…
“I bought a sports car with an auto tranny…”
muahahahah
i’d leave it as a 2.0 liter motor i’ve been in a few stroker cars and i mean on the street they do have a spool advantage but I have a PTE 6152S with a .82 a/r t3 style housing and i get full boost of 35 psi by 4200 and shift at like 8500 or around there and it pulls hard and the motor has been together now for 3 race seasons and probably about 15k miles. I would keep the money u’d pay for the crank and invest in something else DSM