Electrical issue in my M3...any advice?

usually the faults are to be found in the product itself… so the wiriing looks fine, but the ignitor shorts itself out

:gotme:

lesson: don’t do ricer mods

i meant it looks fine prior to it melting…

While the product itself may be at fault, if a wire is MELTING and not blowing a FUSE, there is ALSO something wrong with the wiring/installation/fuse.

Wire has a certain ampacity it can sustain. If the actual current exceeds that value, the wire melts. However, a fuse should blow well before the wire sees that current.

Don, are you 100% positive that the wire between the fuse and the battery terminal was not nicked or cut in any way that could allow it to ground out on the chassis? Now it’s all melted you probably cannot verify this, but it’s really the ONLY situation that could cause the wire to melt.

Also check the fuse holder itself (the battery side) for exposed conductors.

Its not the wire itself, its the actual connector, they like to collect water and close the loop

the connector to the fuseholder?

the connector to the CCFL/LED rings, I do not know if they are even fused

http://www.m3forum.net/m3forum/showthread.php?t=231123&highlight=umnitza+fire

He said the lead going to the battery terminal. He also said the fuse was not blown.

that was just the connector that causes the issues… that causes issues all over the car, the car is also fused on the battery connector, while mine is at least

Always use a fuse.

http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

That can help you decide what size fuse you want to use.

You can make an electrical system blow a fuse over melt a line 100% of the time if it is done properly.

someone INSTALLED angel eyes? i thought people look for mods to GET RID of them on the cars they come on from factory

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH.

There are only 2 hot wires for the angel eyes, and a ground.

A signal wire, and a power wire.

The problems are with the power wire, yes?

The power wire has a fuse on it.

The fuse is somewhere between the battery post and the angel eyes.

If there was a problem with the connector, which caused a short to ground, the current in the wire would increase. However, since there is a FUSE, the wire would never see enough current to cause the wire to melt.

If there was a short to ground BETWEEN the battery and fuse, then the wire COULD get hot enough to melt.

It’s that simple.

Unless the fuse rating is way too high for the AWG it’s protecting, the problem lies between the battery post and fuse.

(also, while the battery post may be fused, it’s also fused at a MUCH higher load, because if you’re jumping the car, it will see a huge load)

the fuse is a 5 amp fuse, but its retarded, I know what you are saying but when hundreds of people have similar issues that all relate to unmitza design there is probably something wrong with the design… and when people trace problems back it goes to that connector… and honestly I 5 amp fuse seems huge for the current that should be drawn

http://www.fastm.com/m3/angeleyes_orionv2.html

Exactly. That is why I posted that page, to help determine what size fuse to use. You don’t want to go under too much, because then you run the risk of blowing the fuse every day. You most definitely don’t want to go over what the wire can handle, because then you’re using the wire itself as a fuse, and the fuse itself is useless. On tip, make sure the fuse is as close to the power source as possible (such as your battery or another fused source).

:slight_smile:

If that is 16 gauge wire I wouldn’t be using a 5 amp fuse, even 14 gauge would be pushing it seeing as you have to run the line from the trunk to the front of the car, possibly heating the wire and developing more resistance due to the longer run.

While i don’t doubt that the connector is a general problem, in this example, if that was the case, the fuse would have blown. You’re not arguing against me, you’re arguing against basic electronic theory.

5 amps will not melt the housing on even 20ga wire. (provided it’s in good condition.

I took off the power and the fuse and wrapped it up…there were def. no shorts. I can check the ground later but I’m fairly positive there’s not going to be a short there either…will report back later I have a long long long day ahead of me.

don, try pulling the fuse and ohm out the terminals.

Agreed

Good Luck !