I’m changing my injectors…
Anyone know if I need the red ‘cap’ on the new one? I can’t seem to get it off the old one. Also, one of my old injectors (without me touching the red cap) had a badly cracked/chipped one.
the red cap is a retainer it doesent come off ,used to center injector and hold o ring ya can use em without but not highly recomended
Oh okay.
I asked some of the guys on the Maxima board and those that swapped to other injectors didn’t use em…and haven’t had issues so I should be okay.
I think I finally fixed my lean code…car runs great now.
Yea, youll be fine without those retainers.
If you don’t mind me asking why are you going with a differant injector? are you putting bigger ones in? If so i hope you have some type of engine management to change the map otherwise that thing is going to run extremely rich
I have a lean code and I got these tested injectors with new o-rings for $60 shipped. They are slightly used.
I think when I did my manifold swap, the injectors that were given to me were crappy. My car runs better, but I still have the code. ECTS and MAF are getting swapped once I get em…at that point if it still doesn’t work I’ll be forced to take it to a shop and have them diagnose it.
I’m trying to fix this damn car so I can sell it and get my M45 
Are you sure theres no leaks in the upper/lower intake? Improper gasket installation maybe? A small leak in the intake can cause a lean code to come on as theres to much air being sucked in. Even a tiny ammount of air from a leaky hose/gasket can cause something like this to happen
I have a thread in general section going…but basically yes…I have gone through all that.
Here is a rundown of what I’ve done (some I did as preventive maintenance as well trying to fix this):
- New front and rear O2 sensors (H02S1-B2 - Front O2 Sensor Bank 2 and HO2S1-B1 - Front O2 Sensor Bank 1 respectively)
- New knock sensor
- New Rear Valve Cover Gasket
- New Fuel Filter
- New Spark Plugs
- Swapped out EBay Cone Intake for OEM 2000-2001 Maxima intake (I’m a 99 and mine doesn’t line up with the new manifold/TB)
- New O2 Sensor simulator (controls two of my O2’s I’m no longer using due to the fact that I’m running Fed. Spec OEM headers/y-pipe instead of California spec.)
- New gaskets between headers/engine and headers/y-pipe)
- Checked for leaks using TB cleaner - no leaks found
- New used injectors
I’ve checked all the coil packs for functionality, etc. The car seems fine. I’m going to try the ECTS and MAF/re-ground the MAF when I get them…but after that I don’t know.
The only symptom I have is my car sometimes stutters at idle…like if I get to a light and the car finally downshifts into first…it’ll go down to 400rpm, sputter, then catch itself and idle at 700-800. If I let me foot off the gas and just sit there at the light…the car jerks/vibrates just a little bit…almost as if a spark plug was slightly bad. I’ve checked that and don’t think it’s a spark plug.
My VAFC-II, which is controlling the VIAS mechanism on the new manifold, is making 0 corrections.
I do have a small exhaust leak…probably between the rear header and y-pipe connection…but I don’t know how to fix it. It’s a brand f’in new Nissan gasket…and it doesn’t sound too bad…so it’s probably not very big. I only hear it when accelerating…slight hiss.
It still honestly sounds like you have a leak somehwere, a bad gasket/improper installation or something.
But I sprayed TB everywhere…isn’t that supposed to let me know where it’s at? I didn’t hear the idle change at any point.
Yea generaly it should, i dunno, just sounds like a leak :sad
Watch it be that damn exhaust leak…that would piss me the hell off.
I’ll try the next two things and see…if not it’s going to a shop.
Exhaust leak should not cause a Lean code. Exhaust gases do not mix with fuel, fresh air from the intake does :tong
Really? One of the things the FSM says is ‘exhaust leak’. Interesting…
Well if you dident mention the stuttering, it could be the leak messing with an 02 sensor… but that suttering sounds like to much air
could be wrong, but from my expieriance thats just what it sounds like… generaly something fucking with the 02 will cause it to run like shit regardless
Hmm…
When I went from Cali. headers and down pipe to federal (utilizes two O2’s instead of 4 - hence the O2 simulator)…I tied the spare O2’s to the radiator support out of the way…right behind the headlights. How does an O2 sim really work? Does it still get actual readings from the sensor, and then edits them? Maybe those O2’s are reading to much air because they are so close to where air comes into the engine bay?
I have no idea, you could always get the foulers that go over the o2 sensor to trick them into thinking everything fine and dandy
give that a shot
Doesn’t a fouler plug into the O2 and then screws into the pipe like before? I don’t spots to install the O2’s…that’s the problem.
Shoudlent matter if you screw it in or not if it fouls the o2 and tricks it into thinking its okay ;D
Oh…hmm. I’ll have to wiki it and see what comes up. lol.