I see you made you made your undercarriage into a heart for me…
you could have done that with a walbro 255 intank and 830cc injectors at 43.5psi base pressure.
so do i.
ok so base pressure will be say 50psi @ 0 vac, under idle it will be down around 32 or so psi, under boost the fpr will bump it up to about 70 psi at the rail (with 20 psi boost ref).
So I have to put 830 cc injector at 70 psi into a calculator (please link me to the one your using if you can save me a google search to find a good one)to find the lb/hr right?
Then I need to make sure the lb/hr is something the pump can pump. But if there is two pumps, the load will be halved, so what would the flow rating be I would expect?
Hard to tell from the picture but are the pumps gravity fed? i know the bosches can be mounted higher than the outlet but not all pumps can, i dont know if the walbro inlines can maybe someone else can comment.
Even shaved it for you too.
I didnt want to dick with intanks in a cell. i kind of took the easy way out i guess… gravity fed inlines.
the injectors dont flow any more when the fuel pressure increases because of boost. this only happens to create an equilibrium between the intake manifold and rail to again achieve your base pressure injectors capacity.
50base base +20psi of boost needs an additional 20psi of rail pressure to push against the 20psi of boost in the intake manifold or else you would get less fuel from the injectors.
why did you even get a fuel cell at all?
dont take my questions as hating, i just dont know what your plans are for the car.
ohh and more than likely base pressure will be around 3 bar 43.5 to start anyways, I had turned mine up to 47 in the last setup because i could only do so much with additive fuling adjustments with the unitronic ecu.
This. Your fuel system was way overthought for your goals
You do want to decide before you start tuning. Changing the fuel pressure affects the entire fuel table.
Ahhh that makes sense. I got you now, it was never explained to me so easily. thanks!
not hating at all I am all ears, thats why its in the tech section not the freeforall side of shift. Work gets done in here!
OEM tank was ditched for weight savings, weight balance, simplicity, etc. I saved 30Lbs + over the oem tank and the shit attached to it. The cars going to see drag duties, and make it to the street if and when it can. Might see some autoX or pipe dream track days who knows how well it will be setup for that.
If you want to drag race in that car i would look into getting that chassic certified. Im not sure if conforms to NHRA cage regulations. It looks well built but I would check on it. Shouldnt be a big deal unless you are digging into the 9’s or 135-150mph+
I hear you. If a single intank could do it 2 inlines build off the same exact pump I have confidence will work too.
Yeah that was an issue with the last ECU. Idle and part throttle decreasing loads were pig rich… it drove like poopy.
I am going to run the VEMS standalone ecu in this car now, cant decide if the extra $300 is worth it for a good base tune from Lugtronic to get going, or just run it out of the box and do it ourselves. Either way the VEMS has a decent (what I heard) self tuning feature to get you in a ball park, then I can play with the tables as we need after.
rgr that, I will at some point. It was a first time deal for me, so if it doesn’t pass, bust out the plasma and try again. its all learning experience. :thumbup
see your ninja edit. I am looking for low 11’s to get my feet wet. i dont really have any goals that will put money in my hands, its a hobby car and a platform to show off some work I can do to maybe drum up business later on. As it sits now, that thing with the mock motor and stuff I can stiff arm across the floor, it cant weight more than 2400lbs. my pipe dream is 2600, 500whp… little less power and a little heavier than some civic’s running low 11’s all day long.
It looks more like a road racing setup. Like i said well built, but NHRA has their own guidelines.
So besides the injectors what’s stopping you from making bigger power 600-700+whp
Well look at it as you have enough fuel to eventually make more power if you want to down the road with just the swap of injectors.
Unless he wants to run e85 +40psi of boost lol. Big pressure systems are where most people run the bosche 044’s. sure each walbro can make 500-600whp but 2 doesnt necessarily equal 1200whp worth of fuel. sure if you made 1200whp at 20psi of boost then yes they can do it but at 40-50psi of boost they can barely supply 900whp on gasoline.
Just use 3 intank pumps with bypass mod and 70psi base pressure like me. Wait, what?
Honestly, not having the balls or the pockets after it pops. lol
The bottom end is good, parts are proven well over 500whp. The rods are somewhat old tech IE pieces and in the last year or so some companies put out some more impressive ones. not saying they are junk just saying alot in the 1.8T world changed recently. (3-4 years ago 3071’s and 76s were god and 400whp were awesome) Boyd’s Motorworks did the machine work and put it together. Balanced the rotating ass. and they have been doing some great work for ever. So I think it will hold well.
the head is a well ported (large port stock head to begin with) +1 valves, Schrick cams and solid lifter conversion kit. Its one of 2 or 3 heads I heard of built as well as this running around currently.
the 6262 should pump plenty for 600whp around 35psi or something… at least with evo guys. I havnt heard of many if any 1.8t guys running this yet with proven results.
the parts list is there, the build quality is I would say there :ninja… it just takes nutts to wick it up and keep asking it for more, more, more.
I think the highest hp 1.8t is a stroker making 750 or something irc. i dont really remember.
Bingo. 1000’s or 1200’s if needed.