Get better tires for the track. :tdown: to FWD, but you should be running much better times.
Just watch those axels. I went a whole season without snapping a single stock axel. If you get slicks on there, or even a good DR, expect to replace one every few times out.
38 psi isn’t doing you any favors. I found my Azenis (terrible track tires anyway) liked 22-23psi pretty well. Let me do 2.0-2.1 pretty consistently. Just take some air with you and experiment. Or find where the air is at the track.
I have no problem with launching fwd :gotme: I really think its driver error not car. Practices makes perfect and take some time and learn how to set a car up for track. Small things will make a big difference tire psi, suspension set up, and just how you drive it.
Hell when i used to race my car on street tires in the 1/8 i went from 8.90s with 2.2 60fts to 8.0s with with 2.0 60fts and that was all with just playing with tire pressure suspension set up and learning how to drive. I didnt change any parts on the car just kept tweaking.
you should def. be able to get a 2.1 60ft out of your car the way it is,
get slicks. lol @ 1/8 racing on bald not even that great summer tires on a peg leg street tune.
suspension is just as important as everything else if u want a good time.
2.4-2.6 60’s are :lol:
You just need some more seat time.
You got some real world expirence, just like bench racing it dosn’t work like more mods=better ET. So don’t be upset, you now have a good baseline to improve on. So have fun and work on it, your lucky the track is probly open all year. If the car dosnt have issues get them figured out. But if you wnat to improve your track times, don’t just add power, or money. And think thats going to be a anwser. When I 1st got my gtp was was getting 2.3, and after about 200 passes was down to mid 1.9’s on summer tires and got one 1.899 (225/60/16 dayton summer tires) Stock diff, axles, best was low 1.7s on ETdrags. thats a road you should wait for.
haha word, joking aside, it takes a few runs to get it all down, but honestly ur not going to any better than 2.2 60’ w/o AT LEAST drag radials, if not some small slicks like a 22x8x15 or something.
When i had the ls turbo setup, i couldn’t cut anything better than a 2.1 60’ on radials (yeah terrible) but on 22x8x15 small slicks i was cutting consistant 1.7-1.8’s which is really where u want to be.
You should really finish tuning it before doing anymore hard driving tho, u are asking for trouble
As brent already said, 2.0’s are very possible in a neon with street tires.
ok, i can possibly cut a 2.0 on radials too but that still won’t net me my best time.
better off throwing on slicks and keeping it planted the whole time but hey, whatever 
WHAT DO YOU KNOW??? noob!
This made me lol when I remembered how Newman almost threw up 2 thanksgivings ago when Lee ate a shit pie covered in whipped cream.
whoa, more on the shit pie, you can’t be serious
an actual pie made of shit. lee ate it?!?
yeah, you need some more practice. FWD has its limitations but with a stiff rear springs and some sticky tires, good launches are easy.
i typically get low 1.8 sec 60fts with my MT 22x8x15 et drags at 12psi. its cake too… i have a 4500rpm launch limiter and i leave at 9psi of boost. stage and mash it and wait till the last yellow and get .500-.600 lights.
on streets i get 2.1 60fts and a little wheelspin in 1st and 2nd.
the wheelhop goes away with slicks too.
the last time i was there, i came out of the hole faster than alot of cars there with fwd, even rwd automatic drag cars with big slicks. cutting a good light helps too.
Brian
It was actually a piece of pumpkin pie with all the pumpkin filling removed and replaced with mayo… then whipped cream and mayo were spread over the entire piece of pie… lee ate it for 16 dollars.
http://www.nyspeed.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5104&highlight=lee+pie
I definatly need more practice launching. I won’t be doing anything until after I get a clutch, bov and tires. Clutch is slipping, and bov is leaking. I also want to send the megasquirt into rs-autosport for the new igintion modules. Once I get that taken care of I’m going do some dyno tuning. A guy I know said for $30 I can do how ever many pulls I need to get a good tune.
Where is the bov leaking from? If its from the valve to the seat all the dsm/evo’s leak a slight amount of boost from there, because they don’t use a seal between the ss valve and the aluminum seat. The amount of boost leaked is negligible. If its from the gasket then rtv both sides of gasket and let set up over night.
when its at idle it makes a whistle/whine noise. When I was running it 4psi it sounded fine. then after a week at 10psi I could hear it while in boost and today it started to flutter.