insane project man, huge :tup:. i can’t wait to see the results when you finally get the car up and running.
so finalgts, will u be actually racing this attention getter this year, or just braggin about it?
id like to see how ur bottomless pocket project fares against some of jnjs priojects on a budget, then we can talk…
until then, im enjoying the read
No he doesn’t race because tires cost to much and he might snap his axles
:tup: Dan. Can’t wait to see it.
I’m not getting in the middle of this crap. I’m just here to post some info.
JnJ made a good point about fuel pressure. Lots of people forget that positive fuel pressure reduces fuel pump flow. 200GPH at 0 psi is around 144 GPH at 4 bar which would be typical for a car running 1 bar of boost (with a manifold referenced FPR) on top of a standard 3 bar static pressure. At 2 bar of boost you’d be down around 125 GPH.
The fuel line size issue is somewhat up to debate since most cars fall between sizes, but here are some guidlines for EFI setups. The numbers don’t apply for carb’d cars running fuel pressures of 4-10 psi or so, which require larger lines for the same HP figures.
These figures are for gasoline folks. If you’re running methanol or some other fuel this goes right out the window.
-6 (3/8") fuel line is good for 500 HP on the outlet side of the pump, but you want -8 (1/2") for the suction side
-8 (1/2") fuel line is good for 900-1000 HP on the outlet side of the pump, but you want -10 (5/8") for the suction side
Yes people have made over 500 hp with lines smaller than -6, but that doesn’t mean it’s smart or safe. Remember different setups require different amounts of fuel to produce a given HP figure. I recommend switching to -6 for margin of safety if you’re around 450-500 hp, and I’d go to -8 above 650 HP or so. After that I’d switch to -10 around 1000 hp.
-Mike
Are you not able to read??? WTF did Howie just say? Since you didn’t read what he said, or follow what he said, you are banned for 3 days… This crap is getting ridiculous…