It was cranking but not turning over, and then randomly stalling while in stop and go traffic (which I’m always in) and not starting again. I got it towed to a friend’s garage, and I don’t remember the exact code the told me it gave, but he did say that it was the Crank/RPM position sensor.
I was going to try and do it myself if it’s not too much of a pain in the ass project.
umm… should be on the front of the block near or behind the front motor mount… has an allen head bolt holding it in? maybe 6mm? can be replaced without removing the mount but the official replacement method is removing the front motor mount???
i dont think it is your crank sensor. very seldom have i seen the crank sensor go bad. they are on a shit ton of cars. yes it is possible. however, i have seen the next scenario go bad more often than the crank sensor itself.
go in the back seat. lift forward the bottom section of seat. there will be a black access plate on he passenger side. 3 phillips head screws hold it down. remove this.
under this, you will have access to your fuel pump. there is one electrical connector on it. unplug it. is it green corroded and/or moist when you unplug it? if so, clean it out best you can and stick your car up for sale asap. you just became a victim of coolant migration.
what happens, coolant seeps past the plug on the coolant bottle. it follows the wire back into the harness on the instrument cluster and the fuel pump wiring. it temporarily kills the fuel pump/shuts the car off. just randomly does this. this shut off stores a crank sensor fault code. 3 times i have seen this. only real fix is to replace the oem bottle w/ a new one before it happens.
problem w/ fixing is the coolant actually follows the wire strands inside the casing. so it corrodes the wires inside the casing–unknown where it will break. could break 1 inch back from the plug, can break midway through the harness etc etc. only real fix is to re-wire the car-- which is not worth the labor to do.
I ended up replacing my crank position sensor, and for about a day it ran great, no stalling, started up just fine.
Two days later, when I try to start it up after it hasn’t been ran for a few hours, it’ll start and then shut off right away. The only way I can keep it running is if I REALLY give it some gas. When it shuts off right after start up, my key light comes on on my dash. No check engine light.
Also, I really wanted to check out the plug on my fuel pump, but I couldn’t get the damn thing off?? Is there some trick to it? I fiddled with it for awhile and it just wasn’t budging. I have a feeling it’s super easy to get off and I’m just retarded, lol.
Love this car, but getting fed up with these sudden issues
to remove the plug, push in on it. same time, have your thumb on the square part applying pressure. this will release the lock.
you almost need someone to scan the car that can get vw codes form it, or you may end up chasing your tail. i hate to even have you look for the corrosion on the pump, but if i were the one working on your car id take the few minutes to look before i did anything else. something is momentarily killing power to your car.
as for your current situation, the key on in the dash is immobilizer. if it is lit up, that means something is not playing right between the key/cluster. read here for an overview. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/immobilizer.html
that leads me back to checking for the coolant. as it makes its way to to fuel pump via the cluster… hopefully im wrong.