i cant get the car to idle if i do not give it a little gas after 3 sec. it will completely shut off then i need to give and hold the gas consistent at partial throttle. the rpms jump 1000 and drop 1000 between like 1500-2500rpms. when i turn the key on fuel pressure is at 55-60 then i believe it may drop a little and then raise with idle then lower when it stalls. i do have 1/2" fuel line running from pump to regulator and then 3/8" to the rail. I have a feeling it has something to do with fuel. Not sure if my wideband is working 100% but it is reading about 9.0 which is rich and i can tell by the smell and look of the smoke coming out of the exhaust that it is indeed rich. Could this be the base tune?
This has been a project for a long time i have the timing it is correct and there is no vacuum leaks that i have found also it is getting spark. Main problem has been the fact that i have a hogans racing manifold which has a ford throttle body bolt pattern therefore i needed to come up with a solution for my honda ( Blox) TB so i made an adapter plate. with that said and done i have solved my problem of having my tps reading backwards (which was the problem i had with the edelbrock one i had on there). However it still runs like shit!
Background
its a b16 obd1 conversion
p28 ecu using chrome base tune from innovative just to try and get it running
1000cc precision injectors
35r /ram horn manifold
hogans racing sheet metal intake manifold
full crower stroker kit to 1.9 including forged crank
custom manley valves intake and exhaust dual titanium springs
2.5 bar map sensor
help please!
i have a vid however i suck and cannot get it on here but i described it pretty good.
sorry i dont know anything about tuning. but im sure it isnt the problem, but p28 is sohc and p30 would be the dohc one.
maybe someone could clear this up on whether or not its true and if u do have to make it a p30?
im 99% sure it does not have to be converted to a p30. right now my only ideas are fuel pump (which it seems to be working fine and is a brand new walbro 255), fuel regulator, possibly an injector however i don’t think so. I’m really leaning towards the fact that my base tune needs help
argh! 1000cc injectors and getting a proper idle without him having the car is basically a shot in the dark. That is your problem (although a fp of 60 sounds way high also, should be about 45 at idle-static). The injector offset he set in crome is probably wayyyyy off. (which, without having the car, is not his fault) I’ve basemapped about 3 setups with 1000cc injectors and they all worked and the only thing I chalk that up to is luck without having the car. Have you talked with him about it? Because I would imagine he would know that right away.
First off i just want everyone to know in no way am i saying mike has anything to do with the car not running correctly if i made it sound that way. Mainly it is my fault for taking 4 yrs and forgetting bits and pieces as well as changing my mind a lot. the car was at innovative however it was not ready to be tuned when i dropped it off there it had an electrical problem, tps, and bad alternator but that is all fixed now. i checked the fuel pressure and its between 45 and 55 could this effect my car as dramatic as i explained in the first post?
thanks for all the help guys keep the ideas coming
with 1000cc injectors a fp of 10psi higher than it should be at idle will definately affect your idle pretty badly.
Try this…Now, I’m assuming you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. All fp numbers I will be relating to are static. Meaning, if you have a gauge, you need to disconnect the hose going to the fp regulator and plug it so you have no vac leak, then read your gauge.
At idle, a stock honda should read ~45psi static. Which I would imagine mike burned you a chip according to that number. So first off, adjust your static pressure at idle to 45psi.
If your wideband is still reading wayyyy too rich (ie: 9-12), the injector offsetting in crome is probably what’s raping you. For idle purposes only, adjust your fp down until you see roughly 14-14.5 on your wideband when the motor is fully warm. This may drastically fuck with your mapping when actually trying to drive the car, so only do this for idle purposes. In general you will need a new chip burned reguardless.
I dont think its an injector offset thing. the last integra i tuned had similar issues with large injectors and i had to change some settings in crome to make it good.
