HFP suspension and Skunk2 camber arms

PittSpeed Automotive
1

I have a 2007 Civic Si sedan. Well, my wife really wanted to suprise me for Christmas, but the UPS delivery person ruined that for her. I get home from work an hour before her and the large box with my HFP suspension was on our back porch. I am currently running Tein S-tech springs, OEM struts, Skunk2 rear camber arms, and Progress rear sway bar. I am obviously keeping the sway bar, but I am unsure about the Skunk2 camber arms. I don’t know it I should just sell them and get some of my cash back or not. I have done alot of research on the HFP suspension and know that I don’t need them. My issue is in the fact that they weigh substantially less that the ugly stock arms and they are adjustable. I am sure that with even the HFP suspension, a little extra rear camber can only help. The whole setup has been on the car since April of this year and has less than 5000 miles on it. I have a 99 Civic EX coupe that I drive to work everyday. I will be giving up a bit of my drop on the S-tech springs, but the better ride and handling difference on the upgraded HFP struts should more than make for it. I am not allowed to get it until Christmas, so I don’t have the parts off yet for sale. If anyone would be interested in PMing me before hand, I will take offers on the springs, but am looking for guidance on keeping the adjustable control arms or not. If some one makes me a reasonable off on the Skunk2 control arms, I will, likely, sell them too.

Thanks in advance, Aaron.

2

just keep the camber arms they are better then stock

3

I certainly wouldn’t say they are better than stock…aftermarket arms pretty much never are. Camber isn’t really what I’d be worried about in your car either. After 2001, Honda stopped using the multi-link rear /Macstrut front arrangement…so the EP/DC5 and whatever yours is had a chassis with inherent understeer, poor bumpsteer characteristics, and loads of issues once lowered. There is a reason you don’t see many RSX-type chassis’d race cars.

That said, I’d sell them and build a better bar/spring setup to tailor that car’s handling toward whatever goal you have. Make sure your toe is dead on at 0 degrees, and learn what the car does or doesn’t do at the limits.

4

He is talking about rear camber arms not front and the reason I say they are better is because you have more flexability to adjust the rear for wider wheels and tires

5

I get what you are saying…but unless they are spherical bearings (and meticulously cleaned) they are not better than stock…in terms of durability. OEM bushings in those arms are infinitely better than aftermarket. I do agree having adjustability in the rear can help to lessen some of the shortcoming of that chassis.

OP: What are you current alignment specs? Are you running any sort of setup that would require changing static rear camber/toe in order to run?