I don't know what to do with my volvo.

So I bought this 2002 s40 for really cheap last fall. I replaced a few things (mainly brakes, exhaust mid pipe) but it won’t pass inspection for a bunch of evap leaks and the dreaded p0420 code (need to replace the cat) but it runs and drives rather well.

its truly a pos, but it’s a running driving vehicle that gets me around. If I could get a nysi sticker for it somehow (wink wink pm me) I would just keep it. But not if I have to put $1000 into a $400 winter beater (thanks NYS)

i have an absurd summer daily driver and can go buy a newer sensible car tomorrow if I had to. I just like not having a car payment.

Idk what to do :frowning:

Why not just get a tune and code the emissions out. Get on sweedspeed and see what the guys do

ill give you 200$ for it

the real answer is convert it to RWD and put a LS1 in it

Isn’t there a resistor mod you can do to delete that code? @piratemosh666

Buy a Honda

Send me photos of it…

I only know of a resistor mod for 850/855s and S70/V70s. From what I understand, first gen S40s are a pain in the dick. I’m on Volvoforums and Swedespeed, so I’ll see what I can dig up.

:tup:

Jam, if you tire of the car, I would be interested…let me know…

Can’t you punch the cat out and just run a spacer on the O2 sensor? That’s what I did on my catless subaro, lotus, etc.

I posted this for you in my thread a while ago…

Well, P0420=
The control module continuously checks three-way catalytic converter (TWC) efficiency by comparing signals from the rear heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) with the front heated oxygen sensor (HO2S). Diagnostic trouble code (DTC) ECM-4801 (on VADIS) will be stored if the efficiency of the three-way catalytic converter (TWC) deviates too much.

Substitute value-
Rear heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) control is disabled.

Possible causes?
-misfiring
-air leakage in the intake system
-air leakage in the exhaust system
-faulty fuel pressure
-uneven compression
-defective three-way catalytic converter (TWC).

I’d try and track down the causes of the other stuff first.

+1 ive done this on every car ive owned that was catless. also works on cars with a bad cat too

Yeah, but there are a bunch of other reasons the CEL is on. Vvt, evap leaks.

ill probably just take lz’s advice. Thanks for the heads up Lz.

joe, I’ll let you know. I’ll see what a dealer will give me in trade and get back to you

Forgive me if I have no fucking idea what Im talking about but here’s what I did last year and it worked. no idea how or why but Im going to try it again soon. Clear codes/disc battery to get the computer to have to relog the codes. go get it inspected FTMFW. I disc’d the battery(thought battery was bad) and while the light was off, i went and got it inspected. Passed with no issues. The next fucking day the light came back on.

PS i have the same cat code and really dont plan to replace it

You got lucky. The computer has to show a certain amount of readiness monitors set (which all get cleared when you clear the CEL) or the computer won’t even let them print out a sticker. You must have tripped just enough monitors to pass but not yet done the EVAP test that was triggering the CEL.

good to know. Wish me luck lol

I still have a guy, PM me if you’d like, considering I inspected plenty of your vehicles (and 90% of the board) years ago.

Find a dealer that’ll let you test drive a car by yourself. Find a car on their lot with a good sticker, pretend you’re interested and voila

http://i682.photobucket.com/albums/vv189/ridin2wheels/Funny%20Shit/anigif_enhanced-23685-1400658913-19.gif

Set it on fire?

I had made the most absurdly accurate Photoshopped inspection sticker once upon a time. I’m much older and wiser now to play those games, but it worked like a charm for a little while!