yea edelbrock is deff not garbage lol
obx is cheap yeah, but many people have used them with success.
no im talking about the flanges they use, gaskets, header locking bolts and the welds.
not sure why you guys are saying OBX isnt good…if you jump on ls1tech and in the search type in obx headers, theirs 34679 threads on them and everyone has good things to say about them…granted im just talking about the ls1 headers…maybe they make different products for other cars that didnt turn out that well.
look pretty damn well built to me…
lets see a shot of the exhaust inlets, bet you the welds don’t penetrate between the runners/flange
its gonna be a hit or miss… if there proven to work then do it… the catless ebay downpipes for 1.8t’s are like 100 shipped and they work great.
no they are…that was mention on ls1tech and they said that they were.
im not scared to try something different anyways…i had a OBX supra intercooler on my v6 and loved it.
edelbrock is good for the old shit, you guys are way behind on technology, they make average stuff for a high price because everyone praises there name, the edelbrock stuff for the ls1 is def subpar performance.
And about the head, i really am not that mechanically inclinced to be doing the work, thats why i am considering taking it to a shop or taking the head off to take it some where. I know it sounds a little above and beyond but the last thing i want to do is fuck the head up to the point where i cant get the bolt out or cant get a new one in, you know?
I wish i was mobile, you live right near me and i would def come give ya a hand. Is there a 1/4" of stud with the headers on it or off? And if you want swing by my place and i have some miliary grade penetrant that will go into 1/1000 of and inch. That will help take almost anything out. The naturally the vice grips as tight as possible with a LITTLE bit of heat. Cant tell ya how many studs have busted with my cars and helping my buddies put theirs on.
And American Racing Headers are right up to par with Kooks, ive never heard a complaint from anyone about their headers.
my thoughts exactly on the removal. the heat isn’t going to hurt it.
were in schenacnac do u live.
this how i’ve gotten many of broken studs out. first of fuck wd-40 throw that shit out it’s useless with heat.
go into ur dinning room steal one of ur moms candles’ go back to the garage with said candle!! now gently, i mean gently heat the bolt back up to cherry but but hot… now take the candle and stick it on the the bolt pusht it right in till it cools and stops melting. this helpps slow the cooling down and in doing so it pulls the wax’t into the the threaded area let it cool get a pair of GOD vise grop and latch on to bolt and slowy work it back and forht till it’s free. this has worked 95% on the time.
other option is to take header off grind down a nut and weld it on and take bolt out. either one is very affective!!
actually Paul im gonna be buying the Whole MAC header/ Y pipe setup.
BREAK FREE? that stuff is serious… you have to shake it for about 5 minutes to get it all mixed up. its a brownish goop. best thing ever.
id do the kooks the best fit and quality for the money plus i think it will fit the trq arm to where the macs wont as the y is to long
yea got that and some green shit they use to find cracks in aluminum airplane parts, that shit is the nuts too. Will go through ANYTHING
i live near brandywine ave, hawk street, its off of state. Im gonna go after it again, if i cant get it out im really not sure what im going to do, hopefully it doesnt rain tomorrow
and did i mention that the bolt is cross threaded?
FUBAR brotha!!
dye penatrant.
yep, thats it
i’ll take some.