I dont want to keep blowing all my money on the car. Yeah it might ‘only’ be 50 bucks but thats 50 bucks more in my pocket, in the bank, towards a bill, etc.
I figure the car has around 300 whp so that clutch should be fine.
the problem is the Ram powergrips require ALOT of fancy foot work to get them out of the hole correctly. For those who have driven my car hard (wayne for example) can tell you that there is no slipping this clutch. Its either fully engaged or not at all and after a run or two they heat up and grip even harder…thats what they are designed to do.
so in other words, if you had troubles with your current clutch, stay far away from the ram powergrip as you will hate it even more.
I’d be more concerned with the TQ rating rather than HP when picking out a clutch.
you babbling bafoon, just buy a Centerforce dual friction. mustang goons love them. they work well.
50 bucks is nothing man. and HP doesnt kill clutchs, GRIP AND TORQUE DO. a stroker makes TORQUE the ram powergrip is rated for a 5.0, not a 347 stroker.
so I guess Ill have to look at something else then. I dont want to deal with bullshit like it not working like stock.
Fuck, Ive had other vehicles with stock clutches and never any issues except one truck I had but I beat the fuck out of it. This POS cant keep an aftermarket clutch at all.
:facepalm
Im literally considering killing myself reading some of this
then Ill hear some bullshit because the Centerforce is cheaper too
PJB’s posts are the equivalent of receiving a blowjob… from a bear trap
which then would be about the same as one from Travis Kooch sense a bear trap and his jaw have the same design.
buy one that is rated for your car. you cant put a 347 stroker in it and expect a STOCK CLUTCH TO HOLD IT. and an aftermarket is not going to feel or drive 100% like stock.
come on jellies. my old clutch was 650$. and it lasted me 6,000 miles. quit crying. even thats cheap.
LConrad has a Tilton triple carbon clutch. go look the price up on that thing. or turbo travs’ Carbonetics triple carbon, or any of the multi-plate clutch users’ on here. all over 1000$, some up in the range of 5k.
ya gotta pay to play cheap paul.
buy low grade clutch, keep smoking it. or spend the money once on a clutch suitable for your output and stop worrying about it.
if your going to kill yourself, give me a working bottle heater before you go
BTW, who do you know that is cheap and good to do body work on a 64 1/2 2+2 fastback?
uh oh- better get maaco :lol
:lol Fuck you, that thing worked perfect for me!!!
Cheap and good typically dont go together well. What ya looking to get done?
the powergrip HD has lasted me 35k+ and still feels like the day I bought it…
for a $400 clutch, thats pretty damn good IMO to handle 550ft/tq+++ which is what its rated for.
I think if I stay off the track the clutch should be fine since thats the only place I seem to blow them.
ssmokin…
http://chewyskustoms.com/
He is computer retarded… but a great friend and veryyy talented with body/paint. Tell him Lance referred you. He will be doing work for me this winter.
clutches are key, i spent 800 on specs best sigle disk stage and it lasted me about 4k miles. now i ave a mcleod twin that was 2200 to my door. clutches are crucial when puitting them behind somthing that needs it! and fyi u car is making more then 300, nmayb closer to 400
my dad currently has Mustang restoration fever. He has been working on it for the last 2 weeks. I just bought him some stainless JRD dual side exhaust and we put it on friday…it sounds NASTY with his cam and shit.
The car just needs some body work and a new paint job. All panels are good and there…just has some deep scratches and shit…the front bumper/grill is cracked but were going to pick up some new ones…all the embles are faded…pretty much cheap stuff besides the paint job.
thanks.
400 with a 105 trap???
I can see where driving practice and what not could get him in the 110-112 range, but a 400rwhp fox should be 118+, correct?