bump for more info please
bump for buy my intercooler for cheap and be done with it.
its kind of tough to buy something when you don’t post any info about it.
which makes it pretty damn big …
tube and fin is not better in anyway. bar in plate is much better in cooling, the only thing tube and fin has over bar and plate is price cuz its cheaper
how is tube/fin less expensive then bar & plate
if that was true then all the “ebay special” intercoolers would be tube and fin, and all the factory intalled intercoolers on cars would be bar / plate
tube / fin designs are the best for removing heat from a fluid / gas because theres alot of fin for each tube
on teh other hand - bar & plate designs have a very bad passage / fin design
usualy the idea is to have as many “tubes” as possible, so that as much of teh intake charge as posible is touching the tube wall, something thats very hard to make happen when your tubes are over 1/4 thick ( or w/e the thicknes of the bar is)
this is why bare / plate IC’s should be long and thin, to give the charge time to tumble in the tube and scrub off all its heat b4 leaving the FMIC
Not true. Tube and fin is cheaper and usually weighs about half as much as a bar/plate IC of the same dimensions. Also because the tubes have round ends rather than squared off ends, they aid in charge airflow rather than disrupting it as it enters the core.
Bar and plate designs do reject more heat due to the greater density of turbulators in the tubes. However, to do so requires greater flow restriction.
Think of it this way. If you let the air rip straight through it won’t cool it much at all. The more you keep it swirling around inside the IC, the more it will cool.
It’s all a tradeoff…
-Mike
Get Spearco Air to Liquid and don’t look back
Tube and fin isn’t necessarily the best at removing heat. Also, having more fins isn’t always a good thing. If you use too high a fin count a high pressure zone forms in front of the cooler at higher speeds which keeps air from getting through and cooling anything but the front of the core.
Having lots of really long tubes without getting crazy with the fin count would be optimal. I say long tubes because the tube ends don’t help cooling, so the longer the tubes are, the less tubes you use, and the less wasted ends you have. 
-Mike
i have noticed a lot of the ebay bar and plate intercoolers dont have turbulators in them. they will show you a shot inside the openings and you can see straight thru them :eek:
I’m not surprised. Using those little buggers must increase the cost of production considerably. I guess that squashes much of the benefit of the bar and plate design. :meh:
Fit the biggest intercooler you can 
(mine is a 12x24x3 with 2.5" inlets. It is a tube and fin, and DOES have turbolaters in the tubes, bought it off ebay for like 250)
The important thing to remember about intercoolers or to know about them, is that they operate more like heatsinks then they do radiators. The heat from a turbo is not constant - I highly reccomend getting a pimp dual I/C gauge like a davtron (I have one. pimptacular) to show the temperature changes. The temperature fed INTO a intercooler differs WILDLY, changes of a hundred degrees or more in a second or two. The OUTPUT - if it’s large enough, should remain within like 10 degrees of eachother, and not much more above ambient. That’s because the MASS of the intercooler - is quickly absorbing the heat in the air and "regulating’ the temperature out at a near constant level.
The REVERSE happens though, when the incoming air is COLDER then the core is. Sit in traffic, and watch an i/c temp gauge and you’ll see this. When the core itself can not shed heat - IE has no air moving thru it, the CORE temp raises. It will actually begin to HEAT the air coming out of it instead of cool it then. This is reffered to as heat soak but it’s not well understood. This is one of the reasons intercooler water/alky/nitrous sprays work so well.
Because the mass of the intercooler is what soaks up the heat and takes it out of the air quickly, the more MASS you have or more metal that is exposed to the air - the more can be absorbed and STORED - so the bigger the better.
Autospeed.com had a great article on this in their article on water spraying an i/c core. I highly reccomend it for anyone.
With my setup assuming good airflow (car is moving) I ussualy never see much above 10 degress above ambient in my upper charge pipes, and temp drops (differences) of 100 degrees or more. In my manifold I’m getting ussualy about 20-30 degrees above ambient accordnig to my stock IAT sensor. I want to try a phenolic spacer between my manifold and head to see how much colder that number gets.