I am thinking about turboing my car, and have started to price it out. As anyone else who has turboed or is looking into it, knows it is pretty expensive. So in a effort to lower the cost some generic iteams are being considered rather than brand name. Th intercooler is one of these parts. On ebaymotors there are intercoolers as low as $65. Now correct me if I am wrong aren’t intercooler just radiators for the air going into your intake? Does it really matter? Just looking for some feedback from anyone with more knowledge on this subject that myself. Thanks.
What car? What are your power plans? You can always go with a used turbo from something like a dsm. They have side mount intercoolers that are popular with many home made turbo systems. homemadeturbo.com :tup:
edit cuz i didnt answer your question… I would be a little leary of a $65 intercooler. The welds may not be top notch, and you could easily run into boost leak problems. also check out johnnyrace.com i think is the site.
a good qulity intercooler will pay off in the long wrong…IMO…if ur doing any serious upgrades such as turbocharging a non-turbo car especially…its best to avoid cutting corners as much as possible
intercooler info:
I am considering running a turbo on a 2003 Toyota Celica GT
I went with a Precision bar and plate FMIC. They use garrett cores, have cast endtanks, and are a great value for the money. Depending on your hp goals and size constraints, they offer three models.
My front mount, 31x8x3.5, can handle up to 600hp. Runs about $370-390 shipped. The smaller core handles 350hp and runs 240-260 shipped.
First link is for a company selling them at a good price.
http://www.kineticmotorsport.com/catalog/intercoolers-bintercooler-coresb-c-187_251.html
Second link is same company offering same FMIC at a forum reduced price.
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2135434
You get what you pay for, with intercoolers.
honestly, if you were trying to squeeze every last ounce of power out of your setup, then i would sa buy a high end IC, but quite honestly, if you are just looking for a bit more power, get the cheap one… The difference in efficiency will not be that dramatic, especially at the low boost that the 2zz can handle. (9 psi max on stock sleeves).
Also, unless you plan on fabbing up your own manifold, or have a line on a cheap one, there is not a HUGE savings over a ready made turbo kit…
http://www.hassturbo.com/catalog/celica-Tkit-dtls.html
That kit is 4000 dollars… You could buy all the parts new for probably… $2500.
off the cuff pricing
Turbo: 1000
Good IC: 400
Cat: 100
Emanage (sucky, but w/e): 250
Injectors: 200
Silicone Couplers + tbolt clamps: 100
Braided AN line + fittings: 100
BOV: 100
K&N Filter: 30
Boost gauge: 50
Misc shit: 100
If you have the capability to build your own manifold and plumbing, you could do it for another 300 bucks, a substantial savings. However, if you plan on paying someone to do it, you are almost right back to the cost of the kit, minus the R&D time put in…
he was looking at a kit made by C2power across the sea but they want $6k for it…but it comes with new pistons/rods,etc. also where is the info for how much boost the stock sleeves can handle? and does anyone make high power sleeves for the 1zz?
EDIT: man that was a good find there on that kit newman, we were looking all over for kits and never found that…looks like a really nice kit for the price…and 263whp on only 5.3PIS??? thats nuts…jeremy check that out
yes, check out this:
http://monkeywrenchracing.com/toyota_engine_packages.html
Stage 1 - $1600 +core (1zz only)
Stage 2 - $2300 +core (1zz only)
Stage 3 - $2400 +core
Stage 4 - $3100 +core
Stage 4 Stroker - $3650 +core (2zz only)
Bare block sleeved with pistons (not assembled, no crank or rods or bearings) - $1500 +core
Stage 1 is a fully assembled block with rotating assembly consisting of stock rods and Wiseco forged pistons.
Stage 2 adds Crower billet connecting rods to Stage 1.
Stage 3 is a fully assembled block with rotating assembly consisting of Darton sleeves, Wiseco pistons, and stock rods.
Stage 4 adds Crower Billet connecting rods to stage 3. Stage 4 stroker also includes required block modifications and brand new Toyota crankshaft.
Stage 1-4 include ARP main studs, new Toyota rod and main bearings, and a reconditioned Toyota crankshaft. Stage 3-4 1ZZ engines can be built with big bore pistons at no extra charge. All Stage 3-4 blocks include a head gasket.
sweet…man newman great info…good finds…makes me want a celica lol
Thanks for doing all the talking for me Nick. What are you my Mom? And yes I have beaten your Ford Fuckus.
Hey Newman do you have any ideas for the tranny? I read off C2power that the trannies are pretty weak. Figure that you might know this because you have the same setup as me.
i think the GTS 6 speed trans is a bit better than that 5 speed… I am not sure what your trans can handle.
blah blah…car nerds
edit: whats turbo…is that like nitro when u push a button or drive over a floating bottle and u go fast for a couple seconds
the gts is actually worse, and niether can handle much more torque than stock…this was on newcelica.org
there are lotus guys running 300WHP with no problems, however it is MUCH lighter and MR means no wheel hop… so it isn’t so much of an issue. people are also running a stock clutch at this power level, so again, i will not have to worry about it nearly as much as you… that is if i decide to do any motor mods.
FTW: people are pulling the wheels on their stock trannies…