Maybe the humpers will see this thread and finally understand what a quality cage looks like.
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Since you dont know anything about the topic, I’ll try to help you out. At first glace, it appears from that picture that the rear bars are closer together than I would prefer - which doesnt provide as much stability to the cage as wider bars and X bracing will accomplish. Otherwise it appears to be pretty good from what I see, as there are many people out there making good cages and I know Oroc likes quality work. You need both skill and a willingness to use it in order to pull off a great job. Many people display one without the other.
Unfortunately, those on here that have no experience in chassis prep or racing (you) dont realize that a pretty weld is not what makes a cage excellent. Design, materials and implementation are what give the car safety and support. For example, I especially recommend those diagonal support bars below the harness bar because they provide alot of lateral support. Its even better if you tie them into a number 1 bar at the base of the main hoop.
To better evaluate a cage next time, try asking yourself:
How well does it tie into the existing suspension?
How much time and effort were dedicated to proper placement and understanding of the physics at work on each bar in the event of an accident or under hard acceleration?
Are there too many bends in the bar or are they placed in akward positions?
Is the tubing ERW or DOM?
Is a car going to see alot of street driving or racing under harsh conditions which would make mild steel a much better choice than chromoly?
There is so much more than meets the untrained (you) eye.
Oroc, Im sorry for the quick thread hijack, I just hate unintelligent humpers. I cant wait to see your car out again :eekdance: Im still pissed at myself about passing on that 86 iroc, and you and dan marvins car dont help
My rear bars arnt very narrow, you could make them wider but i wanted them tied to the rear frame, so i put them right on top of that. There is enough room for a nitrous bottle I definately didnt want the cross in the back, your supposed to put the X on top of each rear shock mount, i personally wouldnt bother unless you have an 8 second car or better where it’ll really pay off. I do go for more the cosmetic side of things, too many bars looks like a jungle jim in there. Everyting is tied together, hoop is boxed at the base on the frame of the car, inner hoop bars go to the frame, and the door bars to thru the floor and tie to the sub frame connectors, very strong.
I took it out for a ride tonght, feels strong but i dont like my tranny at all, it feels very tight, almost like i’m fighting to find the gears, the syncro’s are meshing or however a freakin’ tranny works. I’m gonna change the fluid and start there with some GM syncromesh, see how that goes, maybe i’ll get lucky and the fluid is low or something. doubt it tho. got some exhaust leaks i have to patch up, just little BS problems still, if u consider them problems.
im just posting info on what ive heard and seen on muscle car but arent you supposed to run the tube thru the floor then have a plate welded to the floor and to the tube all the way around and then you can weld it to the frame if needed as well? because a big piece of square stock kust looks out of place to me but idk
this is to what was posted above with the jandj pm bash fued thing
im just posting info on what ive heard and seen on muscle car but arent you supposed to run the tube thru the floor then have a plate welded to the floor and to the tube all the way around and then you can weld it to the frame if needed as well? because a big piece of square stock kust looks out of place to me but idk
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In a normal 6/8pt cage, you weld the plate to the floor and the tube to the plate, so that it spreads the load and cant force itself through the sheetmetal floor. However fox body sheetmetal is thin. Attaching just a 6"x6" plate to that area of the floor was viable, but wasnt going to have the strength we were looking for. However, Joe didnt want any bars running through his tunnel or floor. Therefore we welded the seem, and then welded the box tubing across the length of the floor. That also means it was tied into the rear frame rails, which intersect at that raised area. This way we were able to tie it all together and provide a much stronger area to attach the cage.
Ideally you would run a tube (the #1 bar) across or through the floor from one end of the main hoop to the other, like we did on our own cars. That enabled us to tie directly into the subframe connectors and frame rails. But that is more in line with 25.5 specs than what most people request out of an 8 point bar to run 10s.
In a 4th gen, there wasnt a need for the box tubing (see the plates), and we could bring the rear bars down wide onto the frame rails right near the shock mounts
lol ya stupid overdue inspection, i’m over 2 days, i had to go out and get a little chuck tweakin’ done, cruising down an abandon backroad, doing 40mph in a 45mph, trooper comming the other way busts a Uturn and pulls me over. CRAP!!! I have terrible luck.
Bladez get outta here, we did equal 1st gear tire hazes
Badazz, burnouts still pending gotta break in the clutch.
I took it out for a ride tonght, feels strong but i dont like my tranny at all, it feels very tight, almost like i’m fighting to find the gears, the syncro’s are meshing or however a freakin’ tranny works.
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T56 right? I have that same feeling in my goat… Apparently they did a fairly shitty job designing the stock shifter. Many seem to favor an after market solution.
T56 right? I have that same feeling in my goat… Apparently they did a fairly shitty job designing the stock shifter. Many seem to favor an after market solution.
2-3 shift FTL
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I have the ripper in mine. HUGE difference. Now back to some orange praise…
I have the Hurst Billet with a 6 inch short stick. I’m still unsure what the deal is, i’m gona change the tranny fluid to some gm synromesh tomorrow and make sure its full, i’m not positive where the level is at now and i didnt check it so i’m hoping thats my problem :ham:, thats an easier fix than pulling the tranny and getting it refreshed. we’ll see. I put about 20-30 miles on it tonight cruisin around town.
car feels decent, i have no guesses on HP or ET’s. I have nothing to compare it too and i can’t really get on it too much cuz i’m breaking my clutch in. I got on it a tad, like i said felt peppy, but we will see.
with your car running stopped. Is it notchy going into 1st and rev? Thats the 1st sing of your clutch isnt relising all the way witch it sounds like. As the catch point rose afetr the 1st 20-50 miles is it still relising before top of the master travel?
Don’t use royal purple in a T56. Mobile1 ATF I like using.
Did you bench bleed the master? What shifter do you have. Sorry for all the questing, the LSx hydrilics are super pissy about all this.
There a fill level plug in the side of the case, your see it. you can fill it tho the shifter too. car level a dry trans Fbody T56 take just under 4qts.
I definately didnt want the cross in the back, your supposed to put the X on top of each rear shock mount, i personally wouldnt bother unless you have an 8 second car or better where it’ll really pay off. I do go for more the cosmetic side of things, too many bars looks like a jungle jim in there. Everyting is tied together, hoop is boxed at the base on the frame of the car, inner hoop bars go to the frame, and the door bars to thru the floor and tie to the sub frame connectors, very strong.
