It's been a BMW-type few months here @ R247

I’ll let you slide on this due to the nature of the OT :wink:

Gone like stick doesn’t even come close to describing these motors. I’ve built ALOT of five cylinder turbo motors for people across the country. RS2 clones, Audi Quattro Sport rebuilds and clones, Audi 5000 T sleepers, rally cars up north(crazy cannucks!!!) 20vT I5’s are big boost powerhouses. Talking ~40lbs+ shit at 800+whp. Dalhbach uses this motor DESTROKED to 2.1L at ~40lbs of boost from a customer made KKK spool and at one point in time made over 1100whp at ~ 9,800RPM is his Uber Golf. Detuned now down to about 900whp but now swings out to about 10,500rpm.

Search Dalhbach Golf on youtube. Enjoy…

just watched the golf… WTF thats insane. lol

I remember looking through Eurotuner a while back when I was into the Euro scene. I may have had an orgasm when I saw it…

A few words. Adam is the man. Period.

Word.

He’s like, an automotive god…but so incredibly level headed…most people with his knowledge are total dickheads and will not share any of said knowledge, while Adam welcomes all challengers…

Truly a great dude!

You think that’s great? You should see him in the bedroom! :crackup :banana :bowdown

100% agreed. I need to talk to him about my typical german car oil leaks.

I’ve seen pics… stunning!

Lol, I’m scared.

German car leak repair:

Replace all seals, all bolts, all gaskets, invest in welder, silicone, rtv, then park car… do not drive… ever. Then do same each spring. That’ll do it.

hahah, oh boy. my motor has TOO many seals and gaskets and such. why would I need a welder?

Jason’s leaks came from a retard previous owner, he didnt get a chance to drive it til the seals blew. Mine were just tired from years of street and then track abuse. My RMS has been leaking since last spring.

luckily turner replaced all my gay ass little oil seals before I got to beat the shit out of it!

w00t

I’m amped to get my brand new, squeaky clean motor in there. The whole underside of the car is getting a degreaser bath. It’s nasty.

It’s covered in $12/qt Motul. :banana ::slight_smile:

Step 1- Collect Motul on rags
Step 2-Squeeze rags into bucket
Step 3-Pour Motul back in motor
Step 4-???
Step 5-PROFIT!!!

Lol I use Motul in my Subaru. It’s good shit! ;D

:nono

Only leak I ever had was with that dipstick tube. The RMS was slightly leaking but not enough to warrant my time to pull everything, it was still my daily driver at the time.

Car looks amazing btw.

Busted Jesse… see what happens when you get wise! LOL, you, mr nice guy, who never says a bad word about anyone, calls someone a retard in a thread to which the previous owner, from Santa Cruz, just happens to be in! Thats just funny as hell… classic

Lol Sorry Will, you didnt deserve that. At the time it seemed easier than going through the little list of things Adam mentioned. Apologies.

:haha Funny. But in reality, yea, damn near every seal on that S52 is/was leaking. I ended up replacing the RMS, RMS housing seal, transmission input seal, double oring’ed the dispstick tube. Less not forget all the missing bolts from the TB, oilpan, manifold, etc that I had to source and refit.

Between the underside of Jay’s and Jesse’s M3’s you’d think I had an exxon crude refinery in the driveway. Ahhhh the joys of german car ownership…

Clark sorry I missed you at the house tonight. Had to make an emergency run out and ended up leaving my wallet at the shop tonight anyway so I didn’t have the $$ on me as is. I’ll be at the shop tomorrow starting early AM if you want to stop by and check out the car, as well as get some money back in your wallet there ;D

hahaha

it’s cool guys

I’ve heard it’s easier to replace the whole rear main cover as one piece. The seal is already pressed in it and it’s only like $100, vs the seal alone is ~$20 but then you need to pull the old one and press the new one in. Depends on what your time is worth and what tools you got I guess =P

Damn I didn’t know there were so many things missing on that car =/ my bad.

The car looks like a beast now.

Keep the rubber side down.