Do it Jay!!
This will be sweet :nod
Why would you want to down grade ;D
GT35R FTW!!!, I am all about boost :
:lmao
I wasn’t going to complain about that deal :lol
I was thinking… maybe it would be cool to do an RSX color? I’m digging the Jade Green Metallic they came in.
Totally agree. I mean i still don’t know you personally but i do know the car now. When i first seen it i asked you what engine was in it and you said D15 and i totally believed it ha ha because the car looks exactly oem and it is great. You built the 4 door chassis I’m guess to have it be a big time sleeper, so i personally think you should keep it that way, keep the car white and all the molding black. Looks great. Although my opinion is probably pointless to you i bet but i think alto of people will agree with me on this.
you wont make near that on stock internals and block especially with the head. your gonna need some serious cams, serious headwork, bore to 90mm, serious high compression. i know people “claim” 300whp na is “not hard to achieve” but lets be relistic here. your gonna need some serious dough. i dont doubt that you really want to do something like this but you have to be realistic within your budget. not trying to be a party pooper.
yah i dont know about that
its not unatainable. just expensive. he needs to be realistic.
joey needs to drift his civic with alot of stickers on it
well his idea before was to do a 700whp turbo setup… so i think that 300whp k24 build would be along the same financial lines
300whp NA?? :nuts Lot of money man!! It’ll be like $10,000 or more.
Sleeves $1000
Cams $600
Springs Retainers Valves $600
Brian Crower 2.6 Stroker Kit $3,000
Dry Sump oil pump a lot
ITB’s $1500
Port Work $1000-2000
Injectors $350
New OEM stuff $400
K24 Short Block $500
Crazy Header $1000
Not to mention the compression needed to make that power. You’ll need race gas at all times. You should just go for 250-275whp and have it be driveable and a lot less expensive. Throw some nitrous back on it and you’re set.
I’m not telling you what to do just trying to be realistic.
and the 35R will be equally expensive.
Werd
I’m going GT35r, talked it over with my dad today, he doesn’t want me to do nitrous just to see the motor get fucked again and have my money drained.
you need to relax, i’m doing a 35r, stop trying to talk me down so i can be slower than you :nana because we all know 35r K20/K24 > nitrous + internals K20/K24 :mwahaha :ohnoes
What’s unrealistic? If i wanted something i could do it, it’d be a matter of time, money isn’t really an issue, it’s just when i can get it.
I talked it over today with my dad about my car, and he really doesn’t give a shit what i do with it. :lmao
I don’t care if your car is faster. I just think you are setting your sights too high. By all means do what you want though.
You’re still looking at 10K+ Now you will need a twin disc clutch which Brooks or Mike can tell you is great for street use.
Neither does mine, he just doesn’t want me to make the same mistake and get fucked
I was kidding about the slower than you thing, i don’t care either. It will not be $10+ believe me… When i built my car i was told “It’ll be over $10K all said and done”…but hmmm made it out with only $3,800 to get the car running/run a 13.1@105 until i put it away for the winter…there’s ways around these monster prices, all about finding deals
i was actually going to make a post this morning joey, telling you to either choose N/A, boost, or spray and then stick to that from the getgo. I wound up changing my entire build probably 5 times before I finished it. Trust me, the hit you take when you try to resell parts adds up after awhile.
You will NOT need the spray on top of boost with the 35r kit. I will let you drive mine at half boost to show you what I mean…
lol yeah i probably won’t spray it on top of the 35r…I mean, i drove Swift’s car, and yeah that was SOO fun, but you can let me try yours too ;D :lol