What do they normally sell for new??
andrew can get them for around that
they can go as low as ~$400 in a group buy scenario or just a good deal.
copper > aluminium
true i keep hearing guys with aluminum koyos saying next time they’re going copper for certain… something to consider
Beensoon – you overheating??
“Koyo Radiator Special till End of September!”
price is about normal, everything is more expensive in canada though because of duties etc… suppliers have to pay those too
i payed 400 to my door.
wow i wouldnt expect something so vague to normally come from you.
dont use copper benson, main reason is you have an all aluminum engine and mixing metals is the last thing you want to do. This prevents future corrosion problems and someone like you who is more of a daily driver performance enthousiest more than a pure performance enthousiest (sorry about my spelling im dead tired)
copper is generally more expensive and heavier, but yes it does transfer heat better vaguely. but they also have to be coated in black paint to prevent corrosion where aluminum does not which also kinda sucks.
aluminum is way cheaper to produce, it does not dicapate heat as well, but it is definately safer for an all aluminum engine, and although not as physically strong as a copper/brass rad, it will not corrode nearly as bad.
but this doesnt mean shit, bottom line it comes down to design and placement of the rad for best results, its how the fins are places and how dense they are. makes way more of a difference than materials.
2 core aluminum rads seem to be good at speeds while a copper/brass rad is better at idle and low speeds.
with that aside.
benson ignore everythign i wrote, you can pick up griffin cores for about $360-$420 and you have to make custom mounts and they come in lots of sizes.
or go with a koyo, both will work fine for you.
what problems are you having with the stock rad?
with your setup you really shouldnt need an upgraded rad.
no doubt aluminium is a more logical route to take… and I know lots of things have to be taken into consideration when running a copper rad.
thanks for the lesson though.
I was vague because it was off topic… the topic is about Koyo rads… why would I go on and on about something that isnt on topic?
Spend the extra dollar and get a Griffin.
Hahahaha na I am fine and not over heating, I alrteady have a massive Koyo, it was for a friend that was looking.
But thanks guys
they still have lotsa s13 ones left. u can go tot hte site and order it in real time. but not sure how much moer shipping to canada is. and with duties it’ll prob be about 400 cdn by the time it gets here anyways
Yah I dunno if it was just the Z guys that were having issues… but they kept blowing the necks off of the Koyos. VGs run HOT though so I don’t know if SR/KA guys would have the same issues.
Yah I dunno if it was just the Z guys that were having issues… but they kept blowing the necks off of the Koyos. VGs run HOT though so I don’t know if SR/KA guys would have the same issues.[/quote]Yep, i heard the same thing from the RB guys, which is why i’d rather get a Griffin.
Of course the SRs wont run as hot, but i’d pay for the peace of mind on a hot track day.
I have a buddy runnin an RB25 in an S13 with a Koyo and so far no issues.
funny how a topic migrates from 1 forum to another
anyways like i said on the other forum, My experience with copper rads has been bad. I used to beat the shit out of my YJ jeep. I went through 4 rads in a VERY short time. The sauderjoints on the outlets kept cracking. I tried a oem replacement and a few from partsource with ALL different suppliers. Same crap…
The outlets kept crackign becasue of the vibrations and the beating the vehicle took. I know i’d rather run something with welds than sauder joints…welds dont melt when heat is added.
For the average person around here, a koyo is more than you will ever need, if you get a good deal, take it, you’ll be happy withi it.