Drew you’re being a baby. You reported my post where i said his mounts should work? And he didn’t even know what driveline angle was… and it’s really important. If he doesn’t get it dialed in the NVH that he was worried about so much is going to be through the roof… definitely constructive criticism…
I did not report your post. I made a generic report post using a different post(you were quoted) not even addressing the post itself just to say that the guy should be given mod privileges to his build thread as we have done in the past.
There is no issue telling the guy what is wrong or that something might warrant looking into. But after 10x and he is set on something there comes a point to let it go. Motor mounts not drive-line angle. Just to keep the thread going. Unless the build thread owner doesn’t mind. In that case I don’t care. Hence why I prefer builds to be handled by builder.
LOL, I got a notification as well for my post…and I was the FIRST person to bring it up…
Guys I reported a chain and suggested we let the guy have mod abilities to the thread as we have done for many other builds. It has nothing to do with what any individual posted. It is just a lazy mod way of creating a mod only thread.
---------- Post added at 08:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:32 AM ----------
You are in the mod group for builds according to the reported post lol. I would think you should be able to view it.
As usual, this has turned into the usual NYSPEED shitfest where everyone’s a mechanical engineer, racecar builder, and financial expert from behind the keyboard. I’m probably not going to mod this thread unless people start getting mean to each other. I’d like for people in the future to learn from my mistakes and pick up on all the details that go into something like this.
I do appreciate the useful input from newman, cougar, and others that I’ve met in person (Zac) in the past that have chimed in.
This is a learning process for me, I never claimed to know every last detail. Between my background and education much of it is common sense, but I’m researching as I go, and trying to design all this from scratch while working full time, planning a wedding, and buying a house.
Enough with the politics…
I spent a few hours wrenching on Saturday with the great weather we had and snapped some pictures—will post those later tonight.
Finished the shifter. Further cut, welded, and ground down the mounting point of the 90* arm/shift lever. It’s probably 6” above the console ashtray area—a real old muscle car feel to it (I hate super short throw shifters). The shift knob came in as well, I think it’s a nice tribute to the GM roots.
Grabbed a paint stripping wheel and hit the aluminum front timing cover, valve covers, and coil pack brackets. Put a few coats of wrinkle black on them. They stayed very glossy black at first, I checked them yesterday and they had started to wrinkle some. Still a bit glossier than I would like, but I’ll take a look at them again tonight. Might hit them with another light dusting as well.
Mark helped me slap the hood back on to check intake clearance. Initially I was very worried that the hood would hit, but the natural doming of the hood, along with the stamped bulge in the middle that forms the creases trailing behind the kidneys, gave me an EASY 2” before I got close to the hood insulation. No problems there.
Tonight I’d like to:
-Lift the drivetrain a few inches and replace the stock 540i engine mounts I’ve been using with new M5 pieces
-while the motor is up, pull off the GTO pan to have it welded
-put the diff cover back on the M5 Diff, and put it into place to measure driveline angle/heights.
But newman is a mechanical engineer and he did build a car :lol:
Actually thinking about it there are a bunch of engineers on here :tspry:
I was hoping to see do massive heaters under the “Tonight I’d like to:” list. 
Yup, there’s a few of us ME’s. Newman, Fry, Myself, Luke_L just to name a few off the top of my head.
I was going to mention that i had the same fears with my car and it turned out to be NBD.
Your best bet for doing this is to:
use an inclinometer to measure the angle of both flanges as well as the chassis, then measure the distance to a reference plane, like the ground. I can draw it in cad and tell you the driveline angle if you need.
That’s what I was getting at, I appreciate the input of people with experience.
Myself included as well.
yeah, when the hood closed without a problem, I just about did a handstand.
If you don’t mind doing the drawing that’d be cool. Currently the engine is pointing tail down by 3-4*, I forget which exactly. Haven’t measured it in a few weeks and I’m sure it changed by a few tenths as everything settles in.
When the car was BMW powered I would do a little celebratory one every Friday after work, became somewhat of a small tradition for myself.
I have a set of aftermarket BMW wheels that I’m trying to sell with shit tires on them, but the more I think about it, I’d like to keep them and destroy them
Also get the angle of the plane that you’re measuring to (ground)
The car is currently on strips of 2x6 to raise all four corners off the car as equally as possible while still having weight on the wheels. I think it was 1.2* nose in the air (chassis), so I’ll check that, as well as the angle of the ground.
you want to level the car not on the wheels from the frame.
IE jack stands.
this car does not have a live axle in it.
I’ll let you two discuss this.
My common sense tells me to simulate everything the way it will be when the car is going down the road, or on the wheels. Also, I wonder if the front and rear suspension have different amounts of droop—a car that is sitting on its wheels might have a different overall chassis angle than one that is on jackstands.
Also, dropping in the heavy motor and trans into the chassis when it’s on the wheels will obviously bring the nose down a few degrees, whereas it shouldn’t move at all if it’s on jackstands.
read this http://www.drivelinespecialist.com/Tech1.htm#Introduction
95dime is correct, but i dont think he sait on the wheels?
The thing we are trying to figure out is driveline angle, which because the car has IRS, has nothing to do with the angle the car is at. the dif and tranny don’t move as a function of suspension travel. The car could be flipped on it’s roof and you’d get the same answer.
Fill in these:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]22794[/ATTACH]
It will be easiest for me if you resketch these as exagerated angles so i know that your direction is correct.
Newman, what’s the relevance to dimension ‘A’ above? Same goes for ‘Y’. Does a greater length between the trans and the diff allow for more/less driveline angle?
A is an angular dimension and not a linear one… it technically isn’t required, but i figured it couldn’t hurt to have.
Y on the other hand is very important. imagine a straight line connecting the two flanges. If Y was nearly zero, the driveshaft would be vertical, if y was nearly infinity, the driveshaft would be nearly horizontal. as y changes the angle of the driveshaft changes and thus the angle of the u joints at each end. We are trying to ultimately figure out those angles.
you want to take angle of ride height into consideration when doing this, you cant just set the car level, even if it is irs unless it is determined that the car will sit perfectly level going down the road.
for example, your typical small car will have a wheelbase of around 90 inches. youre going to run a set of skinnies and fatties, with say a 3" rake. (very common with the old “hotrods” to have alot of rake. a 3" rake at this wheelbase when sitting on level ground is going to be about 2 degrees down back to front(positive). now, if you mount the motor level in this car and you decide to run a carburator, you are now ~5 degrees positive on the carb flange. (most carburated intake manifolds such as chevy’s have a 3 degree wedge machined in them to compensate for motor angle) now even if you dont run a carb and go fuel injected, you still have a problem. your motor is tilted down to the front so you may potentially run into oil drain back issues.
this is why whenever i build mounts i set them ~3-4 degrees down front to back(negative) in relation to the ground, not to the car. this way the motor will be at the angle it was originally designed for. now that the motor and trans is mounted, you set pinion angle in relation to the motor/trans. now i typically do this after because i am dealing with completely custom chassis with a link setup or leafspring with a solid axle, so it is very easy to set this up. in the case of the irs, it is still relatively easy. if the rear diff is at 0 degrees when the motor is set at 3 degrees, then i would recommend machining wedged spacers to rotate the rear diff into the correct position if necessary.
cleaned up the front cover, valve covers, and the coil brackets.
shot them with wrinkle black. just threw them on, it looks ok. i was shooting for a more wrinkly finish, but they may still be curing.
got the shifter all situated. i like the height of it, if it proves to be a PITA to drive with it’s 2 bolts to remove it and cut/reweld. the weld ring underneath the knob will be ground down. i also want to use round rod instead of the square stock that i used for a cleaner look in cabin. this was for mock up.
the shifter height and knob is certainly yeehaw!
good news, the hood closes over the intake.
