cool. glad we get to see actual pics of your Z06…
Back from the dead…
So the Avaid semi-dry sump never came in, after about 2-3 months of waiting on it back when this thread was active my engine builder and I decided to cancel the order. I put an Accusump in the car and it did it’s job fine, but it did not solve the PCV issue which has plagued me at track days since I’ve owned this car. I ran Thunderhill 2 days a few weeks back and was flying (passed a ZR1 with a driver that had over 200 days at THill, that was my 1st and 2nd day there) but would get black flagged about halfway into any hard session for oil smoke. 
Well, when my brakes weren’t falling apart (had my left-rear brake line completely break off the caliper).
So yesterday pulled the trigger on ordering an ARE true 4-stage dry sump, same stuff LeMans, World Challenge etc 'vettes use. 3 scavenge stages and external pressure stage with an external, adjustable oil pressure regulator (eliminates the in-block pump) with a 3 gallon (yes, gallon) oil tank. The tank will fit in the stock battery location, which will now be vacant since my Accusump currently lives there but I’m debating running it back in the trunk for weight distribution. The AC comes out with this system but I think the added weight of the external pump and plumbing will entirely offset the weight reduction of removing AC. Though not having the AC condenser in front of the radiator is a nice side-benefit.
I’m also placing an order today on this shortblock: http://www.sdparts.com/catalog/lsgeniiigenivperformance/crateengines/SDPC416ciL92PerformanceShortBlockAssembly.aspx
My builder has some as-cast TFS heads that I think we’re going to send off for a quick CNC then hand match to my FAST 90. It’s either that or go with some worked LS7 heads, but that means ditching my FAST 90 and getting the new FAST 102 and probably new headers too. I’m not looking for 600RWHP here, in fact I think that might be sketchy on a road course even with the LG Gstops and all the brake ducting in. I’m thinking with a road-course custom grind cam I can get 530-540RWHP and about 500RWTQ out of the TFS heads and my current intake/headers all blowing through the stock Tis (I need to stay as quiet as possible if I have any hope of running Laguna Seca, plus I still absolutely love the sound of the Tis :clit: ). I’m not building a dyno queen or a freeway racer so I know I’m not optimizing to the numbers.
-TJ
PS- my old 348 is for sale, PM me 
shut the fuck up, noob.
Eat. My. Ass.
-TJ
Well, if you followed my posts at all in the “post your latest purchase” thread you saw I’ve made some good progress, and changed the plan a good bit from what’s above.
Decided to do it right, and go LS7-based forget the LS3/L92 based 416 I was looking at before. So my builder sent out his spare LS7 block for sleeves, but I guess it was damaged beyond being reused (bummer) so I called up Scoggin Dickey and found a great shortblock that they had on the shelf, should save us a few months versus what having a shortblock done was going to take. It’s a LS7 block (brand new of course) with 4.125" bore & 4" for 427 cubes. All forged internals and such. Flat top (w/ valve reliefs) pistons. Pretty typical, nothing exotic really.
Went with Texas Speed’s PRC LS7 heads, 265cc runners and damn near 390cfm at my peak valve lift. Got the F.A.S.T. 102mm intake and Nick Williams TB also.
Pics 'n such here: http://pittspeed.com/forums/showpost.php?p=796665&postcount=2279
As per that thread we ordered the cam, all the valvetrain components, gaskets, head studs, and all the other detail stuff.
At this point all I have left to figure out is my clutch choice, and order up some Katech valve covers I think.
We also have a little trick up our sleeves that should make this an absolute beast for an NA street motor. :mullet:
-TJ
Well, a lot more progress today but still missing some minor things that show up Monday (like a tstat housing). All of the lines are run, and we primed the motor to test for leaks, looks like we’re good. We’ll have to get full operating pressure through it to know for sure though.
And holy hell, there are a lot of lines… 3 lines from the 3 scavenge fittings on the pan to the 3 scavenge stage inputs on the pump, one line from the single scavenge output up to the oil tank, one line from the oil tank to the pressure input on the pump, one line from the pressure output on the pump to the oil cooler input, one line from the oil cooler output to the remote oil filter block input, one line from the remote oil filter block output to the pressure input on the motor. Whew.
Some pics…
Looking so close, yet so far:
Breather can for the oil-tank:
Remote oil-filter location (inside driver’s side fender, behind the wheel, that’s the Wilwood caliper you’re seeing in the foreground). You can see the relocation of the oil-temp sensor here, I’ll be getting oil-temps post-cooler just before entering the motor this way:
Scavenge lines coming off the bottom of the pan:
Scavenge output to tank line (and a lot of the other lines running bellow it):
And here’s the tank location:
In that last pic you can see that we actually still have one line to run from the top of the tank to the breather-can. You can see the two fittings for that on the top of the tank. We’ll only use one, the other is if you want to vent the valve-covers to the can, but I chose to run the motor sealed to generate true-vacuum in the crankcase (better ring seal, more power), so we’ll cap-off the extra.
-TJ
You’re such a fucking retard. You put your headlight fluid tank where your battery is supposed to go. That shit isnt even going to run! HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!
all i can say is holy wedged in there
all that time and money on a corvette? what the hell are you thinking???
Nah brah, if you want to be really fast you need a lot of headlight fluid. I moved my electricity tank elsewhere.
Yeah, that tank is giant (3 gallons) and there are a lot of lines to run. Access to everything is still pretty good, but working on the pump will be a pain (there is an adjustable pressure regulator on the back of the pump that is going to SUCK to work with).
Yeah, I guess I should have picked a better platform… maybe I should have invested the time/money into my Galant VR4? Wait, NO.
-TJ
Awesome. Love it.
Did you ever get the Pfadt coil-overs? One of your earlier posts had them on the shopping list.
I’m wondering if they are worth the money and how they compare to stock springs with QA1 shocks.
I have read good reviews on both setups.
We didn’t actually get to the Pfadts, it was just one more thing that we decided not to wait on since we can do it while I’m out of country anyway. I have raced my buddy’s C5Z w/ Pfadts though and I really liked 'em, enough so that I’ll buy them. I’ve only driven (not raced) another C5 w/ stock Z springs and QA1s and I really didn’t think they held much advantage over my car w/ stock springs and '04Z shocks. I will say the most amazing car I’ve raced is another friend’s C5Z w/ double-adjustable Penskes. However, the owner has a lot of time and know-how into tuning them. For the average Joe I honestly think the Penskes are too much. If you don’t have the time, patience and skill to iterate on several spring/valving combos as well as tuning them in you’re better off w/ the simpler Pfadts. Just my $0.02 though.
As for the car, it started perfectly on the first try yesterday, and I got to take it home, what a birthday present! I have to say I was impressed that Nick (Newtech) had the tune so close just guessing for fire-up. He logged it upon fire-up, adjusted, logged, adjusted etc. We put probably 30 minutes on it like that, then did an oil change and took it over to the dyno. On the dyno we just did very light-throttle, low-rpm logging under load and adjusted the tune more. Now I just need to get miles on it then we can do the power tune… too bad we’re getting the worst rain today in recent memory!
-TJ
Glad to hear the car fired up and ran right away. Too bad about the rain. That will be way too much power for wet roads.
Thanks for the feedback. Penskes would definitely be too much. I’ve only had my car on the road course once in 3 years. So I am looking at suspension mostly for cutting down the 60 foot times. I see guys getting 1.4’s with the QA1s and as low at 1.2’s with the Pfadt drag suspension. The Pfadt coilovers seem like a good suspension setup for the money. And I read the only difference between the drag package and regular coilovers is the front spring rates. So it would be relatively easy to switch between road course and drag.
Anyway, your car is badass. If I keep modding, my car will stay a consistent 4-5 years behind yours. :burnout:
I have about 300 miles on it now, despite all the rain. Power-tune should be tomorrow. I’m certainly not the guy to ask about drag-race suspension setups, sorry.
Idle vid: Photo Storage
-TJ
We’re still on the dyno, sitting at 599.37 RWHP corrected, 626 uncorrected (so what it’s doing in this air for real). Not done yet, still tuning. It’s also at 530rwtq corrected. Not too bad for NA through the stock Ti exhaust and stock MAF. We’ll probably end up building a bigger intake for it, eliminating the MAF, and going speed density.
-TJ
damn! awesome numbers!
Not too shabby. 
nice work sounds sick as hell
Thanks everybody!
You can really see the stock MAF and exhaust choking it up-top. I think we can get to 620 or more opening up the exhaust and intake.
-TJ
While making the Pfadt order we also put in for a set of their Spherical Control Arm Bearings:
To go w/ the Control Arm Bushings we have the rear lower shock mounts as well (the rear lower shock mount is the only “bushing” left at this point):
Also having Pfadt supply SFK upgraded wheel bearings. I’ve eaten a few wheel bearings already, and it’s pretty common w/ the C5/6 design. Even scarier than just the bearing failure is that the OEM/stock replacement style bearings are known to have the flange break off too (then the only thing keeping the wheel on the car is the caliper)!!! We opted for the upgraded APR wheel-studs as well:
Safecraft 5lbs SFI-approved Halon fire suppression system:
Window-Net:
Right-side Net (just like a window net but to the driver’s right):
Momo 330mm “Mod78” Steering Wheel (also a quick-release for it, but no pic of that):
2x Kirkey Intermediate Road Race seats:
And a bunch 'o tubing, some bends and some welds that will look pretty much like this:
That pic is actually of a friend’s C5Z completed by the same fab-shop that’s doing my car right now.
-TJ