Mo' Pics, Lower $$$ s13 fastback for sale Toronto Area PICS!

$1500 OBO

Shot outside, shows ya it’s a nice clean example of an early S13, and it’s not even washed!
http://www.driftstar.com/for_sale/s13_day3.jpg

Interior hasn’t been cleaned since the summer!
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http://www.driftstar.com/for_sale/s13_day.jpg

Odometer, I ain’t trying to sell ya anything fishy…
http://www.driftstar.com/for_sale/s13_odometer.jpg
http://www.driftstar.com/for_sale/s13_frame_04.jpg

Comes with a decent exhaust, not too loud and not like buzzing angry beez
http://www.driftstar.com/for_sale/exhaust.jpg

Only real blemish that isn’t too had to repair.
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I reduced the price, cause someone told me my sticker ain’t worth $400
http://www.driftstar.com/for_sale/driftstar.jpg

Base model 1990 (no options)
Maroon on Grey interior
7 Spoke OEM Alloys
Dual Din OEM Mazda Protoge 5 CD/AM/FM

Clean body, some problems with clearcoat, but minimal rustage, mainly just around the rear hatch 3rd brakelight

Frame is OK, better than most 240sx’s. There’s been a proper repair on the driver’s side front framerail. (Welded thick guage steel), rear underside has typical rust, but no water gets in the hatch area and no structural problems.

Needs a new motor. KA24E in it has gone south since overheating a few months ago. It still runs, but after 15 min it overheats. Needs a new clutch. Great opportunity to put in a SR20DET, or if someone would do something different, I’d love to see that. :wink:

Comes with spare Master Cylinder that was supposed to be replaced.

I’m selling for $1900 OBO as is. I can put another KA24E in, if you wish, for more $.

Email jover@mail2world.com if you are interested.
http://www.driftstar.com/for_sale/s13_outside.jpg
http://www.driftstar.com/for_sale/s13_interior.jpg
http://www.driftstar.com/for_sale/s13_frame_01.jpg
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you’re not planning on fixing this anymore?

I’m selling for $1900 OBO as is. I can put another KA24E in, if you wish, for more

So what would that extra 1400 be going towards if the motors gone, as well as the clutch? I’ll give you 5 bills for the body and the rims. :slight_smile:

Sorry Average, I’m going to have to take higher offers first.

Martini, I’ve gotta sell some stuff off, in order to set things up for 2005, I can fix it, but I’m on a time limit.

this car is in good shape for an ontario car.
go jover go

ill give u my teardrop rims for ur 7 spokes
ill thow some extra $$$ into it as well

If your willing to go into the $1g range I might have a buyer for u

but i’d have to see it first

From your description it sounds “iffy”

just curious how much did it cost to fix the frame?

A proper repair would mean you could not tell it was repaired… and that is easily noticeable. I dont know a single mechanic that would pass that for a safety “unless its hot”

If you find you run into a real prick of a mechanic he will probably want you to get a structural safety before to prove that the frame is repaired properly

I’ve seen worse hack-up jobs that AE86 owners try to pull off, and even that some track car/daily beaters that are in real need of repair but still people slap on performance parts and crap on them, and then hit the track - this one isn’t that bad, so cut me some slack, jack. :wink:

I’m being brutally honest here, to the buyers, even posting up pics, instead of a covering it up and making some cash and taking off.

WYSIWYG, so you don’t get any surprises. Buyers, would you really want to drive a non-repaired car that has structural rust problems for the same price I’m selling? You’ll end up spending a lot on repair if you do.

I wouldn’t have bought it in the first place if I knew it wouldn’t pass safety, and drive my family/loved ones in it.

Other then not having a running motor… I dont really see anything wrong with the car other then the price…

Frame damage or no damage I have seen S13s cheaper and running.

I just think its 50/50 on someone passing that frame on a safety unless they dont look at it…

I went throu this is my S13… “I slapped in a piece and welded around it” unless they could not tell the frame was repiared they wanted a structural safety…

So I took my sweet ass time. re did it and made sure you couldn’t tell.

That’s not true, there’s always going to be a visible weld line if it’s done properly. That’s what makes it structurally sound.

If you want to hide it wipe it off and spray with rubberized undercoating.