you really ahve no clue what you are talking about do you? you copied exactly what i said in my post and replied to speedped with it and then told me i was wrong at the end of your post. tell me, if i have dual one ohm coils and i wire them in series to a 2 ohm load and i lose one of those coils, what would my final load end up being?
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Im giving up on this thread, but, if you wired the dual one ohm coils to two ohms, and you lost one coil, the sub would not work, as you would have to put the coils in series to get the two one ohm loads up to two, so you are again incorrect… There would be no load.
i made that post assuing that you had 4ohm coils or so, and you wanted 2 ohms, you would get a 4 ohm load if you lost a coil, any other option where you loose a coil, you cannot somehow get a lower resistance by doing so…
Sir, if you had a dual one ohm voice coil sub, and you needed a 2 ohm load, you would have to put the coils in series. If you lost any of the wires anywhere along the line, the circuit would not be complete…
Lots of speculating going on here about the equipment I’ve run and how it was installed…
*I bought the amp from Best Buy back in 1997 with all new wiring.
*I installed it and haven’t looked at it in years…this is in my Mustang which only sees summer use so it isn’t everyday use.
*The gain was turned up maybe halfway.
*With the speaker wires disconnected and the radio off the amp will blow the 25amp fuse.
I have the amp removed, what is the best thing to do to test it? I was planning on removing the cover this evening to see if there is anything obvious.
Is the fuse blowing as soon as you put it in the amp, or when the radio is being turned on?
Regardless the best thing to do is this. Make sure the amp has good power, ground, and remote connected. Make sure none of those wires are shorting eachother out. Remove the RCA cables and speaker wires from the amp. Turn the radio on. If the fuse is still blowing, then you probably have a internal problem with the amp. If the amp stays powered up, you have a problem with the speaker wiring and/or speakers. Could be a blown speaker or speaker wires shorting out somewhere.
About some comments in previous posts…a multi voice coil speaker WILL play with a single voice coil powered. If you dont think this is true, you obviously havnt installed much car audio in your life and shouldnt be adding to this post. Also, amps dont go bad just because of age. I have a few Orion XTR amps laying around from 96’-97’ that will outperform most of the current junk thats available today. And lastly, tossing a 40 amp fuse in for the hell of it is a stupid idea, its not going to help you.
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About some comments in previous posts…a multi voice coil speaker WILL play with a single voice coil powered. If you dont think this is true, you obviously havnt installed much car audio in your life and shouldnt be adding to this post. Also, amps dont go bad just because of age. I have a few Orion XTR amps laying around from 96’-97’ that will outperform most of the current junk thats available today. And lastly, tossing a 40 amp fuse in for the hell of it is a stupid idea, its not going to help you.
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I never said a multi coil driver wouldnt work off a single coil, i said in that particular aplication he posted, it wouldnt. Amps CAN start to deteriate over time, yet it should be more like 30-50 years, not 10… but if its a cheap amp, you never know… And yes, most older amps are auctually built, the newer ones are generally much lighter, and not as reliable as the older ones are, but i have little knowledge of what he is running.
lol… that IS a bad idea to do that, but if i had a spare fuse laying around, and i had the same symptoms this guy has, and i opened it and saw nothing looked wrong, i would probably put it in just for shits and giggles…
But if that even blew, id try and fix it if it was worth it, if not id just get a new one. And in this case, id just get a new one… 300 watts is easy and cheap to get, and new stuff is fun
