debatable
well ill be pissed, but ill still be able to get around.
Doing the injector seals now…one is COVERED in oil. The rest are dry/rotted/cracked. Possible blown headgasket? (Thats what it meant in alero world)
could just have a lot of blow-by?
Or it could be because it does burn oil…but I’m not as sure what it is in dsmland vs aleroland :lol
FINALLY definitively found the problem. Did the injector seals, didn’t fix things. I couldn’t find the biss o-ring yet and need to order it. So I rtv’ed the existing one, as some 4g63 people seem to have done in the past. Put the screw back in, car is close to perfect. Idling between 18-20mm hg, holding boost and only losing 1/2-1 psi in gears. Can also hear the bov opening fully again, which I stopped hearing when this issue started. Still gonna order the new o-ring. Onto the next one (which will probably happen in 2-3 days).
Sell the car
BISS likes to de-seat itself…thinking the screw hole may be stripped. The silicone and screw held for a little bit, but less than 50 miles later, idle is high again and my boost creep issue is back. Also no longer heard the bov opening.
So I set the screw again to the idle I wanted, and same deal, fine for a bit, but it de seated itself. Is that something an o-ring is going to actually fix, or does that sound more like the biss hole itself is stripped?
you can go to any hardware store and get the BISS o ring, size is 3/8 x 1/4 x 1/16
MD608806 is the part number.
turning the BISS by itself won’t do any good.
the proper way to adjust the BISS is by grounding terminal #10 on the diag port and ignition timing adjustment plug by the battery terminal. grounding it puts the ISC stepper motor back in center range. then screw adjust the BISS accordingly to 750rpm and disconnect the grounds. make sure the motor is warmed up when you do this.
If this doesn’t solve your idle problem, i have a complete DSM TB w/ revised ISC. you can try swapping that in to see if it solves the issue.
Honestly, it probably would. I had another leak this morning and found a hole in the silicone around the BISS screw. Resealed it, car was back to normal.
The battery isn’t in the bay, I know where terminal 10 is but I am having trouble finding the ignition timing adjustment plug. When the idle was set to 750, the car had overheating issues, so I honestly don’t want it to stay at 750. Or does the computer play with idle after you reconnect those 2 terminals?
What does a 750rpm idle have to do with overheating?
you can have the idle at wherever you prefer as long as you use this method…750 is just the stock idle for a 1g mt
and yes the ECU controls the idle after the terminals are reconnected
Pretty sure its something to do with a faulty coolant temp sensor…but I’m honestly not sure, thats just how the car reacted when I set the idle to 750.
sell the car
ummmmm nope man . if the idle is higher it will get hotter faster lol . idle lower the w/p cant move the water as well . idle is set that way for a reason man
You seriously need to read a book on this thing or something. It’s kinda mind boggling how you come up with this shit.
sell the car
:+1
dont sell the car , its guys like u that keep us mechanics busy lol . that and u will never learn if ya dont dive in like ya have been . buttttttt stay away from most forums or learn how to weed out the bullshit
Maybe a dumb question, was teh Alero your first car? Its just a big jump from a NA Honda to a FI DSM.