NYSPEED fantasy chumpcar build

So in the kills I brought up the idea of a vortec swap into something for fun to be a racecar for use in chump. we have a few people on here who like to build, and some like me who like to drive. This thread is going to start pure fantasy and may turn into reality for the 2016 season possibly.

So let me give the cliff notes on how to build a chumpcar.

Cars can have up to 500 points total before you get a penalty, you don’t want a penalty.

A good example of a car worth 500 points (no room to modify) is an E36 BMW with an M50, it’s the basic benchmark.

Base requirements for a car worth racing is that the car has to be able to last two hours on fuel. Something like a vortec will probably burn 10 gallons an hour so we need a car that comes with 16 gallon tank at a minimum (you can put a fuel cell in that is +2 so that gets us 18)

if you guys look at the last couple pages of the document with values, I’d say anything that has a value 200-250 points or less is a good starting point. an 80s V6 mustang would be great for example
http://www.chumpcar.com/downloads/2015ChumpCarBCCR.pdf

Motor swaps:

  • 50 points just because you’re doing a swap, but you get the ECU and harness for free.
  • basically the result determined by the average of the lowest ten (10), “A-rated” advertised prices for theexact same component, as found on CAR-PART.COM.

example: the motor I take out is worth 500 dollars on car-part, the motor I put in is worth 600 dollars = 100 points + the 50 point swap fee so a grand total of 150 points

transmission and rear end are the same deal except 25 points each surcharge.

so here is the thing to ponder. We need a cheap, light, RWD platform that has a big enough gas tank to last 2 hours at WOT. So 16-18 gallons at a bare minimum.

4.5.3.2.1. Non-exempt components and their FIXED POINT VALUES:
 Non-OE coil springs (including ‘coil-over’ kit): 20 Points per corner
 Adjustable camber/caster plates (pair): 20 pts Front and 20 pts Rear
 Pair of homemade adjustable camber/caster plates: 5 pts F /5 pts R
 Shock/Strut-tower reinforcement bar (commercial or homemade): 20 pts each
 Non-OE suspension component: 10 pts per component
 Wheel spacers/hub adapters: 5 pts each
 Non-OE sway-bar: 50 pts F / 30 pts R
 Non-OE radiator (except aluminum): 5 pts
 Non-OE aluminum radiator: 35 pts
 Non-OE oil cooler (engine, transmission and/or differential): 20 pts each
 Accusump and/or Oil Accumulator: 10 pts (max limit 3 Qt.)
 Dry-sump assembly: 500 pts
 Commercial racing oil pan: 75 pts (homemade or custom-made, see 4.5.5)
 Exhaust Header: 50 pts per engine
 Aftermarket Ignition Coil: 30 pts single coil; 50 pts multiple coils
 Performance distributor or aftermarket ignition system: 50 pts
 Heim joint tie rods: 5 pts per rod end
 Non-OE suspension bushings: 25 pts / car
 Non-OE engine/transmission mounts: 10 pts per engine / 10 pts per transmission
 Non-OE CV or axles: 50 pts per pair of CV, axles
 Non-OE driveshaft: 50 pts per single driveshaft
 Non-OE differential cover: 10 pts
 Non-OE ECU or chip replacement or chip re-programming: 75 pts
 Non-OE carburetion, induction or metering components/assembly: 100 pts
 Non-OE and/or non-matching cylinder head(s): 150 pts per engine
 Non-OE camshaft or valve train: 100 pts per engine
 Non-OE master brake cylinder: 50 pts
 Non-OE proportioning valve: 25 pts

Wheels, brake calipers, brake rotors and shock absorbers are open PROVIDED allcompetitors maintain the “2X Rule” which means whatever the factory part costs new today at major retailers, you can spend double that on your aftermarket part.

so if you’re interested or bored then brainstorm away and I’ll explain why many of your ideas won’t work using my in depth knowledge of the rules.

one example of a car that does really well is an MR2 with a newer Camry V6 swap (over 200whp)

what creative swap ideas can you think of?

keep it NA, they are really punishing turbos/SC

I can get an mr2 chassis, i have tons of parts, i can get a 3.3 quad cam motor.

and so on. And I want a chumpcar. Hell, even the original 2.2 isnt a complete boat anchor

I don’t know much about chump car but I feel like an MR2 could be great. It would be easy to make reliable, and it’s light enough that brakes and tires won’t be too much.

Fiero!

Fiero how though, look up the value and then think about what you might swap in or modify and how it might compare to an E36 on track.

I never knew what chump racing is. Pretty neat.

Or buy one of Jeff’s v6 mustangs and swap a 4.6 in it…

out value of the V6 and in value of the 4.6 won’t work because the 4.6 is worth too much I suspect. I have heard of people using 5.0 from the ford explorer which is better than other 5.0s from stangs for some reason.

It has better heads and a better intake than the mustang 5.0

Or just do that, I really dont care. So long as i can two-wheel the bitch over red and white curbs while flinging hubcaps into the crowd I really do not care what I am driving.

My lifetime goal is to win a race backwards, upside-down, and on fire.

Na Miata (325 points) with a ford 5.0. Gas tank is only 12 gal though.

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Seems the Miata motor is worth a little more. So it’s just about a free swap with a fox body 5.0, T-5 trans are pretty cheap also. use the diff from a M-Miata for free and spend points on suspension and the extra 2 gallon fuel cell.

the gas tank kills it instantly unfortunately. if you can’t get 2 hours or close you’ll lose by spending time in the pits fueling. You can’t pay point to get a bigger tank. the rule is that you can put a fuel cell up to 2 gallons larger max. you can also run a 1/2 gallon surge tank

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I won’t lie, a big part of this thread is brainstorming the next big thing that nobody has thought out.

there is a team that is still perfecting a porsche 914 with a nissan 3.0 vq from a 90s maxima. there are so many creative formulas that people come up with.

oh, and at the glen two years ago a car flipped and landed on its wheels. when the wreckers got out there to get him they couldn’t find him because he drove back to the pits under yellow then rejoined the race. it’s a good thing we all have 6 point cages and fire suppression.

Does it have to be swapped? An LT1 camaro for 350 seems like it would be tough to beat, either using your points to upgrade the suspension or swapping it because there are still examples over $3000 for LT1’s on car-part. 275 if you used the stock 4 speed trans.

Are you 100% set on RWD? I feel like a older Subaru or a 80’s awd civic wagon (if you can find one, Cost is only 150 points as long as they don’t categorize it as a special edition)

240sx?

An incredibly well document Fiero Chumpcar build.

As someone who autocrossed a Fiero a ton and took one to a couple track days the idea of building a Fiero Chumpcar really interests me. Such fun cars to drive fast.

in all of these, the number one question is can the car run 2 hours at wide open (based on the stock tank size + up 2 gallons if you run a cell). anything less and you kill your odds.

The 87/88 v6 models came with 11.9gal tanks and that was the biggest tank any Fiero ever came with so you can probably cross that car off the list.

well that explains why I never see them in chump :slight_smile:

Is there a penalty if the motor chosen uses a Turbo or Supercharger from the factory?