So in the kills I brought up the idea of a vortec swap into something for fun to be a racecar for use in chump. we have a few people on here who like to build, and some like me who like to drive. This thread is going to start pure fantasy and may turn into reality for the 2016 season possibly.
So let me give the cliff notes on how to build a chumpcar.
Cars can have up to 500 points total before you get a penalty, you don’t want a penalty.
A good example of a car worth 500 points (no room to modify) is an E36 BMW with an M50, it’s the basic benchmark.
Base requirements for a car worth racing is that the car has to be able to last two hours on fuel. Something like a vortec will probably burn 10 gallons an hour so we need a car that comes with 16 gallon tank at a minimum (you can put a fuel cell in that is +2 so that gets us 18)
if you guys look at the last couple pages of the document with values, I’d say anything that has a value 200-250 points or less is a good starting point. an 80s V6 mustang would be great for example
http://www.chumpcar.com/downloads/2015ChumpCarBCCR.pdf
Motor swaps:
- 50 points just because you’re doing a swap, but you get the ECU and harness for free.
- basically the result determined by the average of the lowest ten (10), “A-rated” advertised prices for theexact same component, as found on CAR-PART.COM.
example: the motor I take out is worth 500 dollars on car-part, the motor I put in is worth 600 dollars = 100 points + the 50 point swap fee so a grand total of 150 points
transmission and rear end are the same deal except 25 points each surcharge.
so here is the thing to ponder. We need a cheap, light, RWD platform that has a big enough gas tank to last 2 hours at WOT. So 16-18 gallons at a bare minimum.
4.5.3.2.1. Non-exempt components and their FIXED POINT VALUES:
Non-OE coil springs (including ‘coil-over’ kit): 20 Points per corner
Adjustable camber/caster plates (pair): 20 pts Front and 20 pts Rear
Pair of homemade adjustable camber/caster plates: 5 pts F /5 pts R
Shock/Strut-tower reinforcement bar (commercial or homemade): 20 pts each
Non-OE suspension component: 10 pts per component
Wheel spacers/hub adapters: 5 pts each
Non-OE sway-bar: 50 pts F / 30 pts R
Non-OE radiator (except aluminum): 5 pts
Non-OE aluminum radiator: 35 pts
Non-OE oil cooler (engine, transmission and/or differential): 20 pts each
Accusump and/or Oil Accumulator: 10 pts (max limit 3 Qt.)
Dry-sump assembly: 500 pts
Commercial racing oil pan: 75 pts (homemade or custom-made, see 4.5.5)
Exhaust Header: 50 pts per engine
Aftermarket Ignition Coil: 30 pts single coil; 50 pts multiple coils
Performance distributor or aftermarket ignition system: 50 pts
Heim joint tie rods: 5 pts per rod end
Non-OE suspension bushings: 25 pts / car
Non-OE engine/transmission mounts: 10 pts per engine / 10 pts per transmission
Non-OE CV or axles: 50 pts per pair of CV, axles
Non-OE driveshaft: 50 pts per single driveshaft
Non-OE differential cover: 10 pts
Non-OE ECU or chip replacement or chip re-programming: 75 pts
Non-OE carburetion, induction or metering components/assembly: 100 pts
Non-OE and/or non-matching cylinder head(s): 150 pts per engine
Non-OE camshaft or valve train: 100 pts per engine
Non-OE master brake cylinder: 50 pts
Non-OE proportioning valve: 25 pts
Wheels, brake calipers, brake rotors and shock absorbers are open PROVIDED allcompetitors maintain the “2X Rule” which means whatever the factory part costs new today at major retailers, you can spend double that on your aftermarket part.
so if you’re interested or bored then brainstorm away and I’ll explain why many of your ideas won’t work using my in depth knowledge of the rules.
one example of a car that does really well is an MR2 with a newer Camry V6 swap (over 200whp)
what creative swap ideas can you think of?
keep it NA, they are really punishing turbos/SC