I decided best to just make a little thread for this.
I’m running chump car at the glen and hopefully more events this year with a few friends. One owns a shop, another guy is a full time honda tech for a decade, one guy owns a dyno shop in philly, and the last guy and I are IT nerds by trade. (none of them are on here)
Since the one guy owns a couple racecars for rent including an DA integra we decided this would be the best choice so we can steal parts for and during the race as needed and because he and the honda tech can build these in their sleep.
The way chump works is can have up to a $500 car without penalty. The $500 really has nothing to do with what you pay, it’s what you can find 10 examples on craigslist from 4 geographic zones. So if we can show $300 that gives us money to play with mods. If we go over then you get lap penalties. (it’s not worth putting an LSD in if it costs up 10 laps for example, you won’t make that up at the glen). Things like the cage and brakes are pretty much free, shocks, intakes headers, sways all cost money and will put you over the $500 very quickly. That’s the simple explanation, there is more to it.
So we got a 91 teg from Albany with a bad clutch for cheap and tore into it at the shop on saturday. I snagged a few pics, it’s a little riced out, but pretty clean for the most part.
We discovered it has a B18B1 which is from the newer gen swapped in which in theory kill us because of the rules. Turns out this is not the case. The original engine is less available now so it had a higher price than the swap motor (they are within 10hp). It works out that the swap puts us $50 in our favor, swapping a motor costs $50 on top so it’s a total wash.
Every bushing is getting replaced, all the calipers and rotors, brake lines, clutch, head gasket. I’m going to try and fit 225 star specs on this car so the fenders will get pulled and so much more.
Here are a few random pics, I’ll have more info etc later.
was the easiest way to transfer to the engine stand? made sense to me but really doesn’t matter. Also, the shop owner and honda tech are two different people. I’m happy with basically stripping everything but the interior in less than 8 hours and getting most of the brakes, suspension and bushings put back in.
Also I wouldn’t discredit the benefit of a diff. I have heard of claims going from open to welded on FWD w/ 130hp ish wheel is good for 3 to 5 seconds a lap. Not saying welded is they way to go (although I have heard praises on the subject), just that it is a distinct example that is in my recent memory.
At the Glen say 2:30 to 2:40 ish lap over 20 hours well net 8 (3s on a 2:40 lap) to 16 (5s on a 2:30 lap) laps. Combine that with lower overall front tire temps and lower front tire wear you’d probably gain some consistency needed at the end of the day.
I wasn’t sure of how believable a 3-5 sec claim is so I came up with this following argument:
3.4 miles covered in 2:30 = 81.6 mph
Let’s say the car picks up 2 mph a lap (picks up 3 mph driving off of the corner sooner and harder, and carries that 3 mph down a straight and into the braking of the next corner, braking and turn in has no gains, again just a guesstimate for argument sake)
83.6 mph = 2:26.4 lap (3.6 sec gain)
I’d prefer a definitive comparison, but I think 3 mph gain on corner exit speed is believable.
nope, torn cloth, if you need other interior parts speak up before the dumpster gets them.
yeah, at least they are black I guess.
ZII is rated at 180 treadware so illegal until the update the rule in July. We have an LSD, but with most of the drivers having little experience I know in our case we’d never make it up.
I dont know if its just the photo but the a pillar bar looks pretty far away from the windshield in the last pic. I ran into a similar issue when I put my cage together and ended up have someone rework the entire cage to tuck the bars closer in. It was a big issue for me since I am tall and needed the extra clearance. Those pics remind me of how much it sucks to weld cages.
