Post a PIC of your latest purchase.

[ReDevil]

Anyone that puts Kodak cameras above anything other that Vivitar is clearly trolling hahaha

[KillerBlackbird]

@Boost Creep

Easy now. Not that high. :thumbup

Awwwwww…damn. I thought you were going to join the FF club with me lol.

[Boost_Creep]

I ain’t ballin!

[KillerBlackbird]

lol.
I think you’ll enjoy that 50 mil, it’s an addicting focal length and fun to use wide open at 1.4.

[Boost_Creep]

I need a hood for it, reccomendation?

[jdaniels]

@KrazyKid

just over complicated and expensive imo. spring + valve + boost ref port = done. dont need to make it any harder than it has to be.

Synapse costs less than TiAL.

[Alpine]

@ReDevil

Anyone that puts Kodak cameras above anything other that Vivitar is clearly trolling hahaha

Kodak P&S cameras are actually pretty nice. I’d consider some of their models over Canon in a specific price range, and I’m a Canon fanboi all the way.

[justin2386]

[Boxersix]

@KrazyKid

just over complicated and expensive imo. spring + valve + boost ref port = done. dont need to make it any harder than it has to be.

Fucking lol Mike! Spoken from someone who apparently hasn’t taken one apart. They’re no more complicated than your standard Tial. Only two moving parts inside, main and preload springs, and a few orings.

@jdaniels

Any experience with Synapse Engineering products? I was planning on using their BOV and WG but people are trying to tell me they are junk.

They’re not junk, people just focus on tial alot. I’ve used all of their major products(EWG, BPV, FPR, missing link) multiple times without issues. Only thing that sucks about them is their use of those damn small port fittings, which are oddball sized to most vacuum line. I just machine them to use standard 3 or 4 AN size fittings instead.

This one BPV I modified the internal boost only port on the mill for an internal crossover, and put a 1/8 npt 3an fitting on the main feed port.

[88slowmarro]

@Boost Creep

:rofl :rofl

Yea BIG RICH. I have 315/30s on the CCWs. I just plan on using these DR’s for tuning purposes (Dyno) and on the street/strip for race warz. The car will mainly have the CCW’s on it. :thumbup

dyno will eat those tires . there aq great tire when aired down right and so on . but on the street they dont last at all i used 2 sets last yr , and i only put about 700 miles on my car all season . i roll around on slicks now lolol oh and im a mickey man myself . just for the record

[Boost_Creep]

@88slowmarro

dyno will eat those tires . there aq great tire when aired down right and so on . but on the street they dont last at all i used 2 sets last yr , and i only put about 700 miles on my car all season . i roll around on slicks now lolol oh and im a mickey man myself . just for the record

I’m bringing both. I’m gonna bring both sets of tires to the tuning just in case.

[88slowmarro]

smart move

[Alpine]

Damn, errbody buying Audis up in here.

[votblindub]

@AlpineSkier

Damn, errbody buying Audis up in here.

yea, just dont tell em theyre on some kind of bandwagon :thumbup

[Alpine]

Audi Bandwagon > TDI Bandwagon > Cobalt Bandwagon

[votblindub]

SHHHHH! youre talking about a bandwagon! SHHHHH!
it’s only fashionable to talk shit about me.

[KillerBlackbird]

@Boost Creep

I need a hood for it, reccomendation?

I’m not too familiar with Nikkor glass but B&H shows a couple in their accessory tab for that lens http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/97413-USA/Nikon_1902_AF_Nikkor_50mm_f_1_4D.html

I think I would go with the Nikon HR-2 hood, it looks like that’s the recommended hood.

[Alpine]

votblindub is a stunter and stunts accordingly.

[votblindub]

on 15s

[Alpine]

oh shit i have bigger wintar rims than u!

IM A SEASONAL STUNTER.