EDIT: I found a S14 blacktop FSM, i got the wiring done. The car still won’t idle, i’m sure it’s the vacuum leak. It sounds like it’s coming from the intake manifold or the back of the block, i tryed spraying some carb cleaner around there, no real difference in idle. I’d rather not take of the intake manifold, anyone have any idea what vacuum lines would be running around there that i should check?
Just completed an sr swap, followed the guide on heavythrottle.com but there are some problems.
Edit: S13 redtop into S13 Fastback, FYI. Also i bought the motor off someone who just bought it off of Varun.
Right now we are running the car N/A (SOHC Mafs right in front of throttle body) just to troubleshoot. One main problem is the car won’t idle, we attributed it to vaccum leaks, but after plugging up most if not all of them, the problem seems unchanged.
There is one vaccume leak that sounds like it’s coming from the back of the engine block, you can really hear it between shifts when you let off the throttle sharply.
Also, there is a random starting problem, it doesnt want to start up every time you crank it, unknown cause.
I would appreciate it if someone could tell me what colour wires plug into the following: Cam Angle Sensor, throttle body position sensor, and Temprature sensor. Pics would be much appreciated as well.
I just hooked that up yesterday, the SR’s line was cut, so i used the KA’s line, the brakes work fine but i’ll probably completely remove the line to inspect it for cracks.
The other thing i think it might be is some EGR related lines, difficult to track though, i’ll have to check in the daytime.
How is the car running under load ? does it die out right away once you stop ? Are you sure the timing is proper ? Is the motor hesitating/knocking/ticking ?
Have you tried to adjust the AICV ? there is a screw you can turn to adjust the idle… try bringing it up a few hundred rpm and see if problem remains.
That is a problem if you are running a stock KA fuel pump… I ran mine for about a week and if I let the car sit longer then about 8-10hrs it would take a few cranks before it would want to start and then start on the next.
hey dude, you shouldnt have anything EGR related on the motor…If you do, it will hit the steering column on any USDM chassis.
Make sure u totally remove alll egr components off the motor, and block the hole on ure turbo extension accordingly.
peace
As far as the EGR goes, i removed everything mentioned in the Heavy throttle guide, but i just left the line in the exaust manifold and plugged it, so i don’t have massive hole in it.
I tried adjusting the idle screw, all the way to the right, it stalls out instantly, all the way to the left delays the time it takes to stall out by 5 or 6 seconds when you let off the throttle.
When you have the car rolling it seems fine, but there is a very audible sound of air when you left off the throttle between shifts, i’m convinced it’s the vaccume leak, i tried to track it down earlier, with my hand on the throttle in the engine bay. I can’t track it down, but it sounds like it’s from the back of the motor, it’s only audible when you left off the gas and gets really loud before the car stalls out on idle. I inspected the brake booster line as best i could, it doesnt sound like it’s coming from there.
I can hear it coming from there, it’s driving me nuts trying to find it with my hand in the engine bay.
Is there anything else, maybe EGR related that is located behind the bock/ right where the intake manifold is?
Also, i followed the wiring guide on Heavy throttle, it doesnt tell you what wire goes into the TPS (throttle postition senor) or the temprature sensor.
Anyone mind looking into thier sr swapped cars and telling me what 3 color wires are going into these?
If you have access to a “Seta Lean” torch you can use that to find out whether you have a vaccum/boost leak
All you do is turn the Gas on “no flame” and wave the torch around the engine areas… if the motor revs up, then you have a leak in that area etc…
Most people use Soapy Water and look for bubbles… with the torch setup the motor will rev up instantly giving a rather good idea where the leak is
But if your leak is causing the motor to die out rather easily then its a huge leak… usually a tiny/small leak will result in an “Erratic Idle” meaning it wont sit still but moves up/down.
So you may want to check the Throttle Body Gasket and make sure its sealed to the Manifold… I’d check the Exhaust Manifold to Turbo Gasket as well which is known for blowing and causing alot of problems.
After removing the intake manifold, i found no apparent source for the vaccume leak. The only vaccume lines that i found in that are were for the brake booster line (which we inspected, and re-clamped on tightly) and the IAC. For the IAC, we inspected the tubing for cracks and found nothing, and just put it back. Please note we have that capped off since there doesnt seem to be a place it goes.
I am completely out of ideas, so i just adjusted the throttle cable to always give it some gas, so it can "idle". This is a really bad way to do it, but i'm out of ideas.
If anyone else has any ideas for where it could be leaking, please post. Keep in mind it's still running N/A, so no IC piping could be leaking. The leak still sounds like it's coming from the back of the block/ around the intake manifold.
Thanks in advance
wait lemme see if i have this straight. you have the iac vac line, the 3/8" one that comes out on top the throttle body capped off? if so thats your problem right there. that line should be running to your coldpipe. weld a bung on just before the throttle body and hook it up.
