I wish i was as maticulate as you
frame looks 100% better after being painted.
the exhaust is on, i’ll snap some pictures soon.
OK it should be going for inspection next week.
Winter run-down is:
-Top end tear down(not heads) everything cleaned, painted, NEW gaskets
-NEW 3" exhaust from downpipe back
-NEW battery
-NEW starter
-NEW plugs
-Slightly used, bigger plug wires
-NEW IAC valve
-NEW grille
-NEW decals
-NEW clear corners, and bumper lights
-NEW hardwired intercooled pump switch
-NEW heater core (on my 3rd one, replace the 1st when i bought the truck, the 2nd one (brand new) leaked, its halfway outta the truck, and i got the 3rd one sitting waiting to go in)
-REFURBISHED cruise control module (harness connectors dont match, i’m hunting one down) -thanks to JJ’s
-REFURBISHED wastegate actuator
-REFURBISHED front cladding (soon to be completed, i gotta make a run to Lloyds for some Flex-a-flat)
-REFURBISHED wheels (2 done, 2 to go)
-REFURBISHED frame, stripped, and painted
-REFURBISHED intercooler brackets -thanks to JJ’s
-REFURBISHED horns -thanks to JJ’s
-most of the heater lines are NEW
-traced all the wires, hoses, brake lines, and vacuum lines and they’re all in good shape
-all the fluids when changed the day i bought it, but i’m gonna flush all them again (oil, tranny, x-case, rearend, bleed brakes) and fill all with Royal Purple
makin a Summit run next week for a deep finned tranny pan, and a autometer tranny temp gauge.
AND THE DAMN “BRAKE” LIGHT ON THE DASH STILL WON’T GO OUT.
bet you cant wait to do a boost launch lol, I dont know about royal purple for our trans I would ask over at syty, as for that brake light time do the abs delete it sucks get it out of there, my ty wont be on the road for prob another month I decided to fix all the rust issues in my floor and put all new carpet in and jeremy if you read this,what did you do leave the windows open when it rained :rolleyes:
can i just diconnect the 4 connector from the ABS unit. cause if i go to a show and raise the hood, i can plug them back in.
or do i have to completely removed the unit, and put all new brake lines?
on my taurus, i just pulled the ABS fuse outta the panel.
just diconnect the two wire plug heavy red & black wires!
well you can just disconnect everything then you dont have to worry about the abs going crazy on you, one day in my blazer I was at intersection and the abs just decides to kick in at random and it wouldnt stop had to run into a curb, then i just diconnected the wires and its been fine, but ive heard that the o-ring in the unit itself can go bad and then you really have issues, plus theres a little bit of weight savings taking it out.
Looks white in your sig and the ground FX look silver…
The Syclone is coming along nicely. I love the garage too.
im having troubles getting it to run right now.
i set the timing pretty close to 0.
i have my chip in the STK setting
i rebooted the new IAC
and i pulled the ECM fuse to reboot the computer
and everytime, as soon as i reconnect that tan wire under the dash, it wont run.
it runs smoothly without the wire connected ( a little miss here and there, i’ll check the plugs again) but i get shit when i reconnect the wire
read this he replaced intake gaskets as well
the timing mark on the balancer i was going by, is barely visible, it might even be a scuff in the balancer for all i can tell.
i will put it in the air tomorrow and bump it a couple times to see if i can find the timing mark, and possilby make it a little more visible.
still, a 1/16" turn in either direction on the dist. makes the motor run like crap (with the wire disconnected)
i might be 180 degrees out, cause it is missing on a consistant basic, it misses for a fraction of a second, every 3 seconds, consistently. not enough to be a bad cylinder, but enough to make the motor shake.
tell you what, i’ll make a video tomorrow, that way ya’ll can see how it runs and sounds. cause i’m diagnosing blindly.
BTW when i bought it the truck it would only run on the Track 16psi setting on my chip. if i set it to stock, it would barely turn itself over, and it would die.
How about bad plug wires? Or maybe worse - bad camshaft. Is it a roller? You said it had low miles on it when you got it. If it is a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft, it could have failed in a few hundred miles. Hopefully not, but just thinkin’ here.
The tan wire is the ECT/spark advance (if I remember correctly). It should run better when this is connected (advances the base timing).
it ran ok when i started dismantling it. BTW the i ran the spark wires before i torn it down, and they are ok.
it ran fine up to day i parked it, and this week is the first time i’m restarting it.
i will check tomorrow to see if i might have the intake leaking vacuum.
Vacuum leak will do crazy stuff.
I built a new motor (454) last year for a guy & when I started it for the first time, it ran very badly & the headers started glowing on a few cylinders. I pulled the TBI throttle body off & found the gasket was about 1/8" too small towards the backside of the TB. It caused a serious vacuum leak, but no vacuum noise. Put a new gasket in & all was great.
Hopefully that is all that is wrong. Good luck.
Take the chip out and just put your stock one back in(it will be piggybacked on the 10n1),set your fuel pressure to 43psi, and put your stock boost control solenoid back on(I have 2 extras if you need one) because I remember you had that weird boost controller. Also what is your vacuum at idle should be around 20Hg.
i bet my distributor is 180 out. cause the miss i’m hearin could be the engine backfiring
aint there two timing marks on the balancer,make sure ur using the right one,mark it with yellow chalk!
how many degrees spark advance does the ECM add?
i cant remeber
i have a sly /ty book i’ll sell u!