The general idea is correct but like he said, there is MUCH MUCH more that a good quality stereo involves. Its actually quite funny he made this, I am currently putting my stereo from my truck into my VW and I was trying to see what I could do to not have the sub overpower everything else. The system consists of:
Pioneer Avic Z2
Kicker 700.5 5-channel amp
Kicker 12" L5 Dual 2ohm.
Eclipse 6.5" rear speakers
Currently thinking about what to do in the front. I would like to go Eclipse components but they are a little pricey for me at the moment.
It is all powered through a Kicker 1/0 power kit with a Tsunami 2F capacitor (not the greatest quality but it helps a little). Also going to be running new grounds from the chassis to the battery, engine to battery, alternator to battery (it probably doesn’t help at all, but I like to throw an extra ground on there). Also replacing the alt. to battery power wire. Twisted pair RCA’s and speaker wire will run down the pass. side (less factory wires) and the power is all going down the driver side. I will probably be using the generic kicker ported box for now but will be building a sealed box when I get some time… thinking about POSSIBLY doing a false floor but I’m a little hesitant b/c there is a small leak somewhere back there and I tend to get water in the wheel-well when it rains hard. Not sure on the full plan just yet… just need to get something besides the radio and just front speakers. Its starting to drive me nuts.
Edit: Holy crap… apparently I’m writing a book.
You know, with all the cars I’ve done, I have never truly NEEDED to wire in batteries or large/many capacitors and rewire power and ground cables under the hood with 0 gauge and beef up alternators. If your goal is purely SPL, yea, you would need it. Overall, for a quality sounding setup, there is no real need for that.
Marty, here, knows more about SPL than me, so if you want that kind of advice, totally ask him. I only know a bit about it and did a little work with it but got tired of it really fast.